THE ESTATE DIAMOND JEWELRY EDUCATION LIBRARY

Understand the jewelry you love.

Expert guides to antique jewelry, diamonds, and rare gemstones. Learn what to look for, understand the details that matter, and discover the stories behind extraordinary pieces.

A few great places to start

Six selected reads for thoughtful buyers and curious collectors.

Loose Diamond in Box

Benjamin’s Guide to Buying a Diamond

Learn what to examine beyond the 4Cs, from light performance and condition to grading reports and value.

Jewelers looking at antique rings and jewelry to determine age

How Experts Authenticate Antique Jewelry

Explore the construction, materials, hallmarks, and wear that experts examine when assessing an antique piece.

Rare Art Deco Diamond Engagement Ring in Antique Box

Buying a Genuine Art Deco Engagement Ring

Explore the design details, craftsmanship, and questions to consider when choosing an original Art Deco ring.

Afshin and Benjamin showing antique old european cut diamond to customer

Vintage Diamond Cuts and Shapes

Get to know the cutting styles, facet patterns, and individual character of vintage and antique diamonds.

Cartier Art Deco Jewelry Cufflinks in Red Cartier Box

Cartier Art Deco Jewelry: A Collector’s Guide

Explore the designs, craftsmanship, and collecting considerations behind Cartier’s Art Deco creations.

Princess Diana and her sapphire engagement ring on finger close up

Princess Diana’s Engagement Ring

Discover the history, design, and lasting fascination surrounding the famous sapphire and diamond ring.

01 / 5 GUIDES

Buying and Identifying Fine Jewelry

Start with the questions that help you buy confidently, from terminology to evidence of age and authorship.

Benjamin’s Guide to Buying a Diamond

Learn what to examine beyond the 4Cs, from light performance and condition to grading reports and value.

Antique vs. Vintage vs. Estate Jewelry

Understand what these terms mean and how they help describe a piece’s age and history.

How Experts Authenticate Antique Jewelry

Explore the construction, materials, hallmarks, and wear that experts examine when assessing an antique piece.

Understanding Gold Hallmarks

Learn to interpret the stamps that can reveal gold purity, assay information, and clues to a piece’s origin.

Understanding Jewelry Maker’s Marks

Discover how a maker’s signature can help identify the workshop or jewelry house behind a piece.

Back to topics ↑

02 / 6 GUIDES

Jewelry Eras and Antique Craftsmanship

Recognize the periods, techniques, and finishing details that give antique jewelry its character.

The Seven Jewelry Eras

Trace the changing styles, materials, and craftsmanship of jewelry’s major historical periods.

Buying a Genuine Art Deco Engagement Ring

Explore the design details, craftsmanship, and questions to consider when choosing an original Art Deco ring.

A Guide to Georgian Jewelry

Discover the handwork, settings, and distinctive character of jewelry from the Georgian period.

Edwardian vs. Art Deco Jewelry

Compare the delicate detail of Edwardian jewelry with the geometry and contrasts of Art Deco design.

Understanding Milgrain

Look closely at the tiny beaded edges that give many antique rings their distinctive finish.

Understanding Filigree

Explore the fine metalwork that brings lace-like detail and lightness to antique jewelry.

Back to topics ↑

03 / 6 GUIDES

Antique Diamond Cuts

Explore the individuality of older cutting styles and compare the details that distinguish them.

Vintage Diamond Cuts and Shapes

Get to know the cutting styles, facet patterns, and individual character of vintage and antique diamonds.

Old Mine Cut Diamonds

Explore the proportions, broad facets, and distinctive appearance associated with the old mine cut.

Old European Cut Diamonds

Learn the identifying features of this classic cutting style and what to consider when comparing stones.

Rose Cut Diamonds

Discover the domed facets and understated sparkle that make rose cuts so distinctive.

French Cut Diamonds

Explore a geometric cutting style often found in the fine details of antique and Art Deco jewelry.

Emerald Cut vs. Asscher Cut Diamonds

Compare the outlines, proportions, and visual character of these two step-cut styles.

Back to topics ↑

04 / 6 GUIDES

Understanding Diamond Quality

Understand the grades and measurements, then learn how they relate to the diamond you actually see.

Understanding Diamond Color

Learn how color grades work and what to consider when choosing the appearance you prefer.

Understanding Diamond Clarity

Understand inclusions, clarity grades, and the difference between a grading result and what you can see.

Diamond Carat Weight and Size

Understand carat weight and why two diamonds of the same weight can look different in size.

How Big Will a Diamond Look on My Finger?

Explore how diamond shape, proportions, and finger size influence the appearance of a ring.

Understanding Diamond Fluorescence

Learn what fluorescence is and the questions to ask when evaluating a diamond that exhibits it.

How to Read a GIA Report

Get familiar with the measurements, grades, diagrams, and terminology on a diamond grading report.

Back to topics ↑

05 / 6 GUIDES

Rare Gemstones and Fancy Color Diamonds

Look more closely at exceptional color, origin, treatments, and the documentation behind a rare stone.

Michael’s Guide to Kashmir Sapphires

Explore the color, history, origin, and documentation that matter when considering a Kashmir sapphire.

Afshin’s Guide to Burma Rubies

Discover the characteristics, treatments, and origin considerations behind these highly sought-after rubies.

No-Oil Colombian Emeralds

Understand why origin and clarity enhancement are central questions when evaluating a fine emerald.

Natural Saltwater Pearls

Explore the rarity, characteristics, and identification of natural saltwater pearls.

Understanding Fancy Color Diamonds

Learn how hue, tone, and saturation shape the appearance and grading of colored diamonds.

Buying a Fancy Yellow Diamond

Explore yellow diamond color grades and the details to consider when choosing a stone.

Back to topics ↑

06 / 5 GUIDES

Ring Settings, Metals, and Design

Compare the details that influence how a ring looks, feels, and wears.

The Anatomy of an Engagement Ring

Learn the names of a ring’s components so you can describe and compare designs with confidence.

Engagement Ring Settings and Styles

Compare the principal setting styles and find the details that suit your taste.

Prong vs. Bezel Settings

Compare how these settings frame and secure a stone, along with their appearance and practical trade-offs.

Platinum vs. White Gold

Explore the differences in composition, appearance, maintenance, and everyday wear.

Understanding Cluster Rings

Discover how arrangements of smaller stones create the distinctive shapes and presence of a cluster ring.

Back to topics ↑

07 / 5 GUIDES

Protecting and Caring for Your Jewelry

Make informed decisions about fit, resizing, insurance, and the everyday care of a treasured piece.

Insuring Your Engagement Ring

Understand the coverage questions, documentation, and appraisal considerations to discuss with an insurer.

12 Mistakes That Can Ruin an Heirloom Ring

Learn which everyday habits and handling mistakes can put a treasured family ring at risk.

Understanding Ring Resizing

Explore how resizing works and why a ring’s design and materials affect the available options.

How Should an Engagement Ring Fit?

Learn the signs of a comfortable, secure fit and when to ask a jeweler for guidance.

When to Take Off Your Engagement Ring

Identify the activities and situations when removing your ring can help protect it.

Back to topics ↑

08 / 5 GUIDES

Great Jewelry Houses and Remarkable Stories

Explore influential designers, celebrated jewels, and stories worth discovering.

Cartier Art Deco Jewelry: A Collector’s Guide

Explore the designs, craftsmanship, and collecting considerations behind Cartier’s Art Deco creations.

The History of Cartier

Follow the people, milestones, and designs that shaped one of the world’s most celebrated jewelry houses.

Princess Diana’s Engagement Ring

Discover the history, design, and lasting fascination surrounding the famous sapphire and diamond ring.

Aldo Cipullo and His Jewelry

Meet the designer behind some of the twentieth century’s most recognizable jewelry creations.

The Story Behind EDJ’s Record-Setting Dreidel

Go behind the creation of an extraordinary jeweled dreidel and its record-setting story.

Back to topics ↑

09 / 3 SERIES

Complete Article Series

Go deeper with individual guides to diamond color grades, diamond clarity, and the birthstones for every month.

Diamond Color

Explore the D through M color grades, one guide at a time.

Start with the diamond color guide

Diamond Clarity

Compare clarity grades and understand the terminology used to describe them.

Start with the diamond clarity guide

The complete VVS diamond guide

Understanding SI3 clarity
SI3 is not a GIA clarity grade.

Birthstones by Month

Find a meaningful gemstone and explore the guide for your birth month.

Start with the birthstone overview

Back to topics ↑