Complete Guide to the Old European Cut Diamond

The Old European cut diamond is a timeless symbol of vintage elegance, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts. With its distinctive round shape, large facets, and high crown, this cut reflects the craftsmanship of a bygone era and predates the modern round brilliant cut.

Benjamin Khordipour, a renowned lecturer, author on vintage jewelry, and a GIA-certified Gemologist, explores the Old European cut’s fascinating history and enduring allure.

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What is an Old European Cut Diamond?

The Old European cut diamond is a predecessor to the modern round brilliant cut and was popular between 1890 and 1930. Characterized by its round shape, a small table, and a high crown, this cut was designed to maximize the sparkle of diamonds in candlelight.

Unlike today’s precision cutting techniques, Old European diamonds were hand-cut, giving each one a unique charm and character. With its larger facets and visible imperfections, this vintage cut holds a special place in the world of antique and estate jewelry.

Pros and Cons of Old European Cut Diamonds

Every diamond cut comes with its own set of advantages and drawbacks. Let’s explore why an Old European cut diamond may or may not be the right choice for you.

The Pros of Old European Cut Diamonds

1. Unique and Hand-Cut: Each Old European cut diamond is individually hand-crafted, ensuring that no two are exactly alike. This gives them a one-of-a-kind appeal that many find attractive.
2. Distinctive “Fire”: While they may not sparkle as much as modern cuts, Old European cut diamonds offer a unique “fire.” This effect causes light to disperse into colorful flashes, creating a beautiful rainbow-like sparkle.
3. More Affordable: Old European cut diamonds are often available at a lower price than modern cuts, offering great value for those looking for vintage charm without the high cost.
4. Rare and Antique: As antique pieces, Old European cut diamonds are increasingly rare, appealing to collectors and lovers of Old World jewelry.
5. Eco-Friendly: Since these diamonds were mined long ago, they have a minimal environmental impact today, making them a more sustainable choice.

The Cons of Old European Cut Diamonds

1. Limited Options: Their rarity can also mean fewer options to choose from, unlike modern diamonds that offer a wider selection.
2. Imperfect Cuts: Hand-cut diamonds may show slight imperfections and asymmetry. While some see this as part of their charm, others may prefer the precision of modern machine-cut diamonds.
3. No GIA Cut Grade: Due to their handmade nature, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) doesn’t assign a positive cut grade to Old European cut diamonds.
4. Warmer Colors: Most Old European cut diamonds tend to be in the warmer color range, from I to L. Finding one in the rare, whiter range (D to H) can be more difficult.

How Much Does an Old European Cut Diamond Cost?

Talking about a diamond’s price is hard because it depends on several factors, and the cut is just one of them. The other three Cs (color, carat, and clarity) also play an important role in a diamond’s price. It’s crucial to understand that diamonds don’t have a fixed per-carat price. The higher the carat weight, the higher the price per carat. The same goes for color and clarity; the higher the grades, the more expensive a diamond will be. Even a one-grade difference can significantly increase a diamond’s value.

In today’s market, a high-quality Old European cut diamond can cost 10-15% more than round brilliant cut diamonds. Of course, this isn’t a universal rule. Modern diamonds often cost much more than Old European cuts because they are more proportional and have more brilliance.

Technical Guide to Old European Cuts

Here’s a table containing the technical details of an Old European cut diamond:

Old European cut diamonds are round in shape and feature a small table and a large culet. They have a total of 58 facets that are typically much larger than in round brilliant cut diamonds. Old European cut diamonds are easy to identify because of the large culet at the table’s center.

They also have a higher crown compared to other diamond cuts. Since Old European cut diamonds were hand-cut using antiquated cutting techniques, they don’t have the symmetry of modern diamonds. While this makes each diamond unique, many people don’t like the imperfection.

How to Identify an Old Euro Diamond

The visible culet is the first place you will look to identify an Old European cut. After that, there are a few more direct ways to identify it. Here’s our list, in descending order, of the easiest ways to identify an old Euro.

One of the hallmarks of the old European cut diamonds is their visible culet. To view the culet, you can peer through the top of the diamond. You can find the culet on a diamond larger than 1 carat without even using a loupe. Look at the rounded facet in the diamond of the picture above.

1. Large culet. The culet is the facet at the bottom of the diamond.
2. Small table. The table is the facet at the top of the diamond.
3. Frosted girdle. The girdle is the facet that encircles the diamond between the crown and pavilion. If it’s frosted and opaque, it’s likely old. Read more.
4. Bumpy girdle. If the girdle shows tiny side cracks, it’s a good sign that the diamond is old.
5. Larger Facets. The old European cut diamond will show facets from the top that are “larger” and “less splintered” than a modern diamond. See next section.

History of Old European Cut

As you would rightly assume, the Old European cut was developed in Europe. It evolved from the old mine cut, which was popular in the late 18th century. This cut was common during the Art Deco period when jewelers focused on maximizing the carat weight instead of sparkle.

This doesn’t mean Old European cut diamonds don’t have any brilliance. Since they were hand cut by candlelight, these diamonds don’t have the “perfect” appearance we see in modern-day diamonds. This is actually what makes Old European cut diamonds so special; since no technology would allow precise, symmetric cuts, every diamond is unique. Hence, finding two identical Old European cut diamonds is impossible.

Although this cut is typical for antique jewelry, it’s still very popular today.

Old European Cut Diamond vs. Brilliant Cut Diamond

As mentioned, the Old European cut predates the brilliant cut, so the two have several similarities. Still, these two cuts differ in numerous ways. Here’s how Old European cut diamonds compare to brilliant cut stones.

Perhaps the biggest similarity between the two cuts is the equal number of facets; every Old European cut and brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets. The difference is in the size, because Old European cut diamonds have significantly bigger facets. Thanks to this, Old European cut diamonds focus more on fire dispersion; they feature multicolored flashes of light. This isn’t the case with brilliant cut diamonds, which feature smaller facets that maximize the brilliance.

Old European diamonds also have higher crowns and larger culets than brilliant-cut diamonds. This larger culet can be spotted in the diamond’s center, which isn’t the case with brilliant-cut diamonds that feature pointy culets.

Another vital difference is that Old European cut diamonds are handcrafted, while modern brilliant cut diamonds are machine cut. While they don’t have the symmetry of brilliant cut diamonds, Old European cut diamonds are valued for their uniqueness.

Since they were mostly cut between 1890 and 1930, Old European cut diamonds are considered antique. Nowadays, modern brilliant cut diamonds are classic and have become a symbol for engagement rings. This also means it’s much easier to find brilliant cut diamonds than Old European cut (OEC) diamonds.

It’s important to mention the price difference. A high-quality OEC diamond can be up to 15% more expensive than a modern brilliant cut diamond.

Old European Cut Diamond vs. Old Mine Cut Diamond

The old mine cut was the most popular type of diamond before the Old European cut. Most existing old mine cut diamonds are featured in jewelry dating from the Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian eras. The term “old mine cut diamonds” is used for diamonds sourced from old mines at the time, so it’s not directly related to the diamond’s shape.

Old mine cut diamonds and Old European cut diamonds have only a few differences, and one of the most significant ones is their shape. Contrary to Old European cut diamonds that are completely round, old mine cut diamonds feature a square shape with slightly rounded edges. They also have a thicker culet and a wider girdle.

Both old mine and Old European cut diamonds have 58 facets and are handcrafted. Both feature higher crowns compared to modern brilliant cut diamonds. Since old mine and Old European diamonds are cut by hand, they are unique and asymmetrical. It’s impossible to find two identical diamonds dating from this era.

It’s important to mention that the term “old mine cut diamonds” is often used to describe Old European cut diamonds. This term often represents handcrafted, antique diamonds, including the Old European, rose, and cushion cuts. While modern brilliant cut diamonds originated from old mine cut diamonds, they are never described as such because they are machine cut.

Expert Tips for Buying an Old European Cut Diamond

When purchasing an Old European cut diamond, it’s crucial to keep a few key points in mind to ensure you’re making the best decision:

• Buy Only From an Expert Jeweler: Always work with a reputable jeweler who specializes in vintage diamonds. They can provide valuable insights and ensure the authenticity of the diamond with proper certification.
• Make Sure It Comes With an Appraisal: Ensure the diamond comes with a detailed appraisal from a reputable gemological laboratory. This document is essential for verifying the diamond’s quality and for insurance purposes.
• Go for a Lower Color: Old European cut diamonds can still look stunning even in lower color grades, such as K or L. Don’t hesitate to choose a warmer tone, as it adds to their vintage charm.
• Check the Inclusions Carefully: Since these diamonds are antique, they may have accumulated minor flaws over time. Pay close attention to the strength and location of any inclusions to ensure they won’t affect the diamond’s overall beauty or durability.
• Consider the Setting: The right setting can enhance the diamond’s appearance and even make it look brighter. Choose a setting that complements the diamond’s color and shape.

Additionally, do research before buying. Learn everything that there is to know about vintage diamonds and jewelry. Click here to read our 300+ article blog written by leading jewelry experts.

How to Set an Old European Cut Diamond

An old mine European cut diamond is an excellent choice for antique jewelry. In terms of the setting, OEC diamonds look great with settings that feature details and intricate designs, highlighting the stone’s beauty. Edwardian, Georgian, and Art Deco jewelry are ideal for Old European cut diamonds.

When it comes to metal, Old European cut diamonds are often paired with platinum or white gold. However, they can look just as beautiful in yellow or rose gold.

Shop Old European Cut Diamonds

Estate Diamond Jewelry has been collecting vintage jewelry for over 30 years and is proud to share its rare collection of old European rings collections online. Click here to view our entire collection of Old European cut diamonds. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us.

FAQ on Old European Cut Diamonds

1. Why do Old European cut diamonds look different from modern diamonds? Old European cut diamonds were hand-cut, focusing on maximizing candlelight reflection, which was the primary lighting source at the time. This gives them a softer, more romantic sparkle compared to the precision brilliance of modern cuts.
2. Are Old European cut diamonds harder to find? Yes, due to their age and the fact that they are no longer produced, authentic Old European cut diamonds are increasingly rare. This adds to their appeal for collectors and vintage jewelry lovers.
3. Why do Old European cut diamonds have larger facets? The larger facets of Old European cut diamonds were designed to maximize fire or colored light dispersion rather than the brilliance we see in modern diamonds. This feature creates a rainbow-like sparkle that’s distinct to this cut.
4. Can I get an Old European cut diamond in a modern setting? Yes, you can set an Old European cut diamond in a modern setting. Many people enjoy combining the antique diamond with a contemporary style, while others prefer traditional or vintage settings to match the diamond’s history.
5. Why are Old European cut diamonds popular with collectors? Their rarity, vintage charm, and unique craftsmanship make Old European cut diamonds highly desirable among collectors. Each stone tells a story, with its hand-cut details reflecting the artistic approach of the era.
6. Are Old European cut diamonds eco-friendly? Yes, since Old European cut diamonds are antique and have already been mined, they have no additional environmental impact. This makes them a more sustainable choice compared to newly mined diamonds.

Talk to a Diamond Expert

Your preferences are vital for choosing the perfect Old European cut diamond. Purchasing one can be challenging. If you need help selecting the right diamond or have any diamond-related questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to one of our antique diamond experts.

We’ve been in the business for decades and have the expertise to help you find the diamond you’ve always wanted. Plus, we have an impressive collection of vintage jewelry featuring Old European cut diamonds.

Contact us to schedule an appointment in our New York showroom. If you’re not in New York, we’ll be happy to help you via a video appointment.