Are you looking to buy a diamond? One of your first decisions will be regarding diamond shapes and cuts. This article will teach you everything you need to know before deciding which diamond shape to get.
Important Note: There is a big difference between a diamond shape and a diamond cut. See below.
What is the Diamond Shape?
The diamond shape refers to the diamond’s shape as it appears from above the gemstone. Most names associated with the different shapes (see below) are usually associated with the diamond’s top-down silhouette.
The diamond’s shape isn’t the only factor in its overall appearance. The positioning and angles of the facets throughout the gemstone must be mathematically planned for that shape to sparkle.
Additionally, there are two overall styles of diamond shapes: brilliant-cut diamonds and step-cut diamonds. See below.
“Diamond Shape” vs. “Diamond Cut”
The words cut and shape are interchanged in the market without much thought. Technically, though, they are very different.
“Understanding the difference between diamond shape and cut is like learning the secret handshake before entering the jewelry club,” quips Afshin Shaddiae, author of the best-selling book The Engagement Ring Guide.
Diamond Shape: As mentioned above, the shape refers to the actual top-down appearance of the diamond’s geometric form. There is a massive range of diamond shapes, each with a specific name. There is no such thing as a better or worse shape, as the shape is 100% subjective. Examples of shapes are Brilliant Round Cut, Emerald Cut, Asscher Cut, and Old Mine Cut.
Diamond Cut: The diamond cut refers to the level of quality of the execution of the diamond shape and how it will interact with light. So, for example, the diamond cut score of a round brilliant cut diamond would depend on the mathematical formulas required for the size, position, and angles of its facets. The GIA (and others) has set protocols of what each diamond cut should look like depending on the diamond shape, and they score each diamond on their certification (from Excellent to Poor), depending on the accuracy of the diamond cutter.
Which Diamond Shape is Most Popular?
Based on our market research, the round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular shape, with 42% market desirability. It is followed by the oval cut at 16%, cushion cut at 15%, princess cut at 8%, and emerald cut at 8%. The Asscher, radiant, marquise, rose, and heart cuts represent numbers under 4% each.1
Complete List of Diamond Shapes
Here’s the most comprehensive list of diamond shapes on the internet.
Skip Ahead: Round Brilliant Cut, Cushion Cut, Oval Cut, Pear Cut, Old European Cut, Princess Cut, Emerald Cut Diamond, Asscher Cut Diamond, Old Mine Cut, Heart Cut Diamond, Rose Cut Diamond, Radiant Cut Diamond, Marquise Cut Diamond
1. Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
Shape: Round
Faceting Style: Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1 – 1:1.03
Age: 1950 – Now
The round brilliant-cut diamond is undoubtedly the most popular shape available. It represents over 40% of all diamonds sold and is so popular that it is almost always the standard graphic used when someone describes what a diamond looks like.
The round brilliant cut diamond’s pricing structure is higher than any other diamond shape on the market. It is also much more desirable and far easier to sell if needed.
The round brilliant is so versatile that it is usually the standard diamond used in all types of jewelry. It is also the most commonly used shape for accenting stones.
Pricing Examples: A round brilliant 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $14,700, and a round brilliant 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $4,300.
2. Cushion Cut Diamond
Shape: Rounded square
Faceting Style: Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1 – 1:1.30
Age: 1850 – Now
The shape of the cushion cut diamond is usually described as a “rounded square” or “rounded rectangle”. Its curved edges make it look like a cushion or pillow, hence the name. It has larger facets than most other diamond shapes, especially in the antique variations.
Because the length-to-width ratio of a cushion cut can vary, it often comes down to personal preference. Some people want it as square as possible, and some want it a little more rectangular. The number of facets on the pavilion can vary, unlike on other cuts that demand consistency, which makes for different brilliance or fire levels. If there are more than facets 58 facets, the shape will be labeled as a modified brilliant cushion cut.
Cushion-cut diamonds are especially popular in engagement rings, pendants, and earrings.
The antique cushion cut diamond is known for being the featured cut in most of the world’s most famous and important diamonds. It is also an especially popular choice for elegant and high-class engagement rings. See below.
Pricing Examples: A modern cushion brilliant cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and a cushion cut 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700.
3. Oval Cut Diamond
Shape: Oval
Faceting Style: Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1.30 to 1:1.55
Age: 1850 – Now
The shape of an oval cut diamond can vary from slightly ovalish to a highly elongated oval. Its faceting pattern follows a stretch variation of the round brilliant cut.
Due to its facet breakup and elongated shape, the oval-cut diamond has a far bigger appearance than other diamonds.
A potential issue with oval cuts is the bow-tie effect. On poorly cut stones, not all the light entering has the opportunity to escape again; this creates black triangles within the stone, which create a bow-tie effect across the width of the diamond.
Pricing Examples: A modern brilliant oval cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and an oval brilliant 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. Additionally, a well-cut, elongated variation will demand a premium.
4. Pear Cut Diamond
Shape: Pear or tear-drop
Faceting Style: Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1.40 to 1:1.65 is considered as “good”
Age: 1850 – Now
The shape of the pear cut diamond is described as a tear-drop. It is a hybrid of the oval and marquise, with one end rounded and the other pointed.
Due to its unique shape, it faces challenges regarding symmetry and the bow-tie effect. Additionally, setting it into jewelry requires extra creativity (over other diamond shapes) as the pear cut is not naturally balanced and symmetrical.
A big argument often rages around how the pear-cut diamond should be worn. Should it point toward the body or the tip of the finger? Our answer is to wear it however you want. If it points toward the fingertips, it can make the fingers and hand look more slender, and if it points toward the body, the onlooker’s eye will be drawn toward the wearer. But, regardless of these considerations, it comes down to personal preference. Your ring, your rules!
Pricing Examples: A brilliant pear cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and a pear brilliant 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. Additionally, a well-cut, elongated pear cut will demand a heavy premium.
5. Old European Cut Diamond
Shape: Round and a little off-round
Faceting Style: Antique Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1 – 1:1.30
Age: 1830 – Now
The old European cut diamond is a round diamond, famously known as the predecessor of the modern brilliant cut round diamond. It is known for its uneven shape, small table, visibly large culet, and tall pavilion.
The old European cut (aka old Euro and OEC) is still extremely desirable, and our company, Estate Diamond Jewelry, specializes in curating stunning vintage rings that showcase this gorgeous cut. These diamonds and rings are highly prized due to their age, old-world feel, and ethical value.
Pricing Examples: An old European cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and an old European cut 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700.
6. Princess Cut Diamond
Shape: Square
Faceting Style: Modified Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 46-54 facets (excluding culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1 to 1:1.05
Age: 1980 – Now
The shape of the princess cut diamond is square, and its facet structure is similar to the brilliant faceting but slightly different. The pavilion has chevrons instead of a brilliant faceted diamond’s regular type of pavilion. The more chevrons, the more facets, and the tighter and smaller the facets will be.
Princess-cut diamonds have only been around since 1980. They have become increasingly popular in engagement rings because their square shape helps them work well in almost any setting. The added advantage for designers and diamond cutters is that the yield from a rough stone is almost the highest of all diamond shapes due to a princess cut being close to the shape of one-half of the rough stone.
Pricing Examples: A princess cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and a princess cut 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. The heavily modified versions of the princess will usually demand a premium to create, but that premium will unlikely carry over the second-hand market.
7. Emerald Cut Diamond
Shape: Rectangular
Faceting Style: Step Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1.3 to 1:1.5
Age: 1860 – Now
The shape of an emerald-cut diamond can range from a square to an elongated rectangle. Its faceting pattern follows the step faceting system (and not the brilliant faceting system). Because of the steps of the cut, light is reflected with a hall-of-mirrors effect, giving a distinct feel that has been growing strongly in popularity.
The emerald cut was originally designed for cutting emeralds, hence the name.
The emerald cut is an increasingly popular engagement ring cut. It is also very popular when used in eternity series, like on a wedding band, bracelet, or pendant.
Pricing Examples: The emerald cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and a emerald cut 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700.
8. Asscher Cut Diamond
Shape: Square
Faceting Style: Step Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: 1:1 to 1:1.05
Age: 1902 – Now
The shape of an emerald-cut diamond is square or almost squarish. The Asscher cut is one of the very few cuts that has a patent and is named for its inventor. Influenced by the original emerald cut, the Asscher cut standardized and perfected the shape in the early 1900s.
Like the emerald cut, the Asscher cut is very popular in engagement rings. It is also very popular in pendants and the center diamond of intricate necklaces and bracelets.
GIA technically classifies the Asscher cut as a square emerald. The main difference is that it has a much higher crown and a much smaller table, producing much more brilliance than an emerald cut can. The antique variation of the Asscher cut will have sharper corners, an even smaller table, and a highly visible culet.
Pricing Examples: The Asscher cut diamond 1 carat, D color, and VVS1 will cost $10,000, and an Asscher cut 1 carat, J color, and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700.
9. Old Mine Cut
Shape: Roundish to Cushion
Faceting Style: Antique Brilliant
Number of Facets: 58 (57 + 1 culet)
Length to Width Ratio: N/A
Age: 1830 – Now
The old mine cut diamond ranges from roundish to cushion-shaped. Some are well-cut and symmetrical, and some are poorly shaped.
It is difficult to know the exact year the old miner was introduced, but we know it was at the beginning of the 1800s. The earlier variations were crude, but they became more defined and cohesive with time.
With the rise of the cushion cut and old European cut, the old mine cut fell in popularity. In recent years (the past 20 years or so), however, it has steadily grown in popularity as consumers are desperate to get the last remaining antique diamonds on the market.
Pricing Examples: A one-carat old mine cut diamond of D color and VVS1 clarity will cost $10,000, and a one-carat old mine cut diamond of J color and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. Larger and high-profile old miners will sell at a premium.
10. Heart Cut Diamond
Shape: Heart
Faceting Style: Modified Brilliant
Number of Facets: Varies
Length to Width Ratio: Varies
Age: 1460s – Now
The heart shaped diamond, signifying love, is the most popular diamond shape that has a meaning outside of its actual shape. The facets follow the brilliant faceting arrangement and are designed to display a sparkle as you turn it.
Warning: The heart cut is one of those things you will either completely love or hate. It will be the ultimate expression of love or something cheesy. We can’t answer that, and it’s entirely up to you, but you must consider that before taking the plunge.
Heart cuts are better suited to large stones. Smaller stones don’t convey the shape so well and can end up looking like a pear shape due to the limit of the double arc at the top. If the stone is to be set in an engagement ring, a 3-prong setting is preferred so that the heart effect isn’t lost.
11. Rose Cut Diamond
Shape: Round (although sometimes in other shapes as well)
Faceting Style: Rose
Number of Facets: Varies
Length to Width Ratio: Varies
Age: 1500s – Now
The Rose Cut is usually round, although oval, cushion, and marquise rose cuts are also typically available in the market.
Although the rose cut was one of the most popular diamond shapes in the 1800s, it quickly fell out of fashion with the arrival of the brilliant faceted stones. Interestingly enough, the rose-cut diamond made a massive comeback in the past few years and is now considered a highly desirable shape. In fact, genuine antique rose cut diamonds have a very high premium on top of regular diamonds, even brilliant cut round shapes, which are generally the most expensive.
Pricing Examples: A one-carat old mine cut diamond of D color and VVS1 clarity will cost $10,000, and a one-carat old mine cut diamond of J color and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. Antique rose cuts will usually have a very high premium.
12. Radiant Cut Diamond
Shape: Rectangular or Square
Faceting Style: Modified Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: Varies
Length to Width Ratio: 1.00 to 1.05 for square, 1.05 to 1.50 for rectangular
Age: 1977 – Now
The radiant cut diamond is one of the newest diamonds on the market that has received universal acceptance. Although less than 50 years old, it is one of the most popular diamonds available.
The radiant cut cleverly combines the brilliant cut faceting style with some step cut faceting style.
Pricing Examples: A one-carat radiant cut diamond of D color and VVS1 clarity will cost $10,000, and a one-carat radiant cut diamond of J color and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700.
13. Marquise Cut Diamond
Shape: Marquise
Faceting Style: Brilliant Faceting
Number of Facets: 58 facets
Length to Width Ratio: Usually between 1.75 to 2.25
Age: 1700s – Now
The marquise cut is best described as the shape of a mouth (or an American Football). It is famous for its liveliness, large visual impression, and elongated appearance.
Although it isn’t among the most popular diamond shapes, it has a dedicated base of loyal fans who wear it in their engagement rings, earrings, and pendants.
Pricing Examples: A one-carat marquise cut diamond of D color and VVS1 clarity will cost $10,000, and a one-carat marquise cut diamond of J color and VS2 clarity will cost $3,700. Elongated variations will demand a premium.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are the more common questions that people ask us regarding diamond shapes.
What’s the Difference Between a Brilliant Faceted Diamond and a Step Faceted Diamond?
The primary difference between a brilliant faceted diamond and a step faceted diamond is their cutting styles and visual effects.
Brilliant faceted diamonds, such as the Round Brilliant or Cushion Cut, are designed with numerous small, triangular, and kite-shaped facets arranged to maximize light reflection and give off brilliance, sparkle, and fire. This cutting style aims to produce a dazzling effect that catches the eye from every angle.
In contrast, step-faceted diamonds, like the Emerald Cut or Asscher Cut, feature larger, rectangular facets arranged in parallel lines that resemble steps on a staircase. This style emphasizes the diamond’s clarity and depth, creating a more subtle luster rather than an intense sparkle.
In short, step-faceted diamonds highlight the stone’s transparency and color, offering a sophisticated, refined appearance, while brilliant-faceted diamonds are chosen for their radiant, eye-catching brilliance.
Do Different Diamond Shapes Match Personality?
Yes. Different personalities gravitate towards different diamond shapes. This chart is not a definitive list but is usually a good starting point.
| Shape | Personality Description |
|---|---|
| Round Brilliant Cut | Classic, timeless, and brilliant. |
| Cushion Cut | Romantic, vintage, and soft. |
| Oval Cut | Elegant, sophisticated, elongating. |
| Pear Cut | Unique, graceful, teardrop-shaped. |
| Old European Cut | Antique, charming, and romantic. |
| Princess Cut | Modern, edgy, and sparkling. |
| Emerald Cut | Elegant, sleek, and refined. |
| Asscher Cut | Vintage, bold, and art deco. |
| Old Mine Cut | Vintage, charming, cushion-like. |
| Heart Cut | Romantic, sentimental, whimsical. |
| Rose Cut | Antique, delicate, and soft. |
| Radiant Cut | Brilliant, modern, versatile. |
| Marquise Cut | Regal, dramatic, elongating. |
Which Diamond Shape is the Most Expensive?
The round brilliant cut diamond shape is the most expensive on the market. Depending on the rarity and size of the round cut, their prices will range from 10% to 80% above regular-shaped diamond prices.
Which diamond shape looks the biggest?
The marquise cut is usually the diamond shape that looks the biggest for its carat weight. This shape features an elongated, boat-like design with pointed ends, which maximizes the diamond’s surface area, creating an illusion of greater size. Other elongated shapes, such as the Emerald Cut, Cushion Cut, Oval Cut, and Pear Cut, also have a similar effect.
What is the best diamond shape for an engagement ring?
The Round Brilliant Cut is often considered the best diamond shape for an engagement ring. Its classic shape is renowned for its sparkle and brilliance, and its timeless appeal makes it suitable for almost all ring settings.
What diamond shapes are trending currently?
According to Afshin Shaddiae, the three most popular diamond shapes in 2024 are round, oval, and cushion shapes.
Talk to a Diamond Expert
Do you have additional questions? Or do you need help finding a specific diamond?
Feel free to send a message to our diamond experts. We will respond within one business hour.
- This data was gathered through private surveys by Estate Diamond Jewelry, encompassing over 30,000 entries from July 2024. ↩︎
