Jewelry Blog

The Guide to the Cabochon Gemstone

Rare Sapphire Cabochon Ring with Diamond

The cabochon gemstone has always been a very popular way to present gemstones in jewelry. In this article, Afshin will teach you everything you’ll need to know, from buying tips for cabochon to the best setting techniques.

Afshin Shaddaie is one of the most authoritative voices in the vintage jewelry market, a famous author, and a worldwide lecturer.

What is a Cabochon Gemstone?

Cabochon Sapphire Gemstone Ring 14974

A cabochon (pronounced kaa·bow·chaan) gemstone is a precious stone polished into one smooth, rounded surface instead of cut into facets. The bottom of a cabochon will usually be polished flat.

Cabochon’s are one of the oldest gemstone cuts and have remained popular for centuries.

In modern times, the overwhelming reason gemstones are cut into cabochons is to hide inclusions and imperfections. The rounded, smooth shape usually shows high saturated color but also has a thickness that does a great job obscuring most of the inclusions.

Pros and Cons of Cabochon Gemstones

Cabochon Sapphire Gemstone Ring 14974

Pros: Cabochon gemstones have many great advantages over faceted gemstones. Their shapes are very desirable and fun. The prices for cabochon gemstones are usually much better than faceted, and the inclusions are very difficult to see.

Cabochon stones can also display fascinating visual effects like stars and cat’s eyes. See below.

Cons: Cabochon gemstones are usually polished smoothly for a good reason, and you should remain on high alert until you can discern that reason. Additionally, light doesn’t interact with cabochons as it does with faceted stones, and it can sometimes appear lifeless in comparison.

The market value of cabochon stones is also much weaker, meaning you may take a greater loss than when trying to sell a faceted stone.

Cabochon Gemstone vs Faceted Gemstone

As you’ve seen so far, cabochon and faceted gemstones are different. You’ll want to make sure you know what you want before you go shopping for a piece of jewelry.

Here’s a list of the biggest differences to be aware of before shopping:

CabochonFaceted
AppearanceSmooth, rounded surfaceMultiple flat surfaces (facets)
Light ReflectionLimited light reflectionHigh light reflection and sparkle
Best for Gem TypesOpaque or translucent stonesTransparent stones
DurabilityLess likely to chipMore likely to chip
Ease of SettingEasier to setCan be complex to set
Perception of ValueUsually less valuableUsually more valuable
Market DemandMore niche marketHigher demand in the market
MaintenanceShows scratches more readilyRequires less frequent polishing
Optical PhenomenaShows phenomena like asterism and chatoyancyLess likely to show special phenomena
Risk of ChippingLower riskHigher risk

It is important to note that this table is only for gemstone-quality stones. It doesn’t apply to mass-produced costume gemstones or non-natural gemstones.

How to Set a Cabochon Gemstone

Cabochon gemstones, like faceted stones, can be set in a bezel or a prong. Both setting styles have advantages and disadvantages.

Bezel-set cabochons will be far more secure and protected, hide imperfections visible from the sides, and require much less long-term maintenance.

Prong-set cabochons will showcase the gemstone much better, let more light into the (already darkened) body of the gemstones, require less metal, and be easier to clean.

In most cases, though, the jeweler should try not to obscure too much of the stone with metal (unless there is a good reason).

Meaning Behind the Name: Cabochon

The word “cabochon” comes from the French word caboche, meaning head, which is a clue to how the finished stone usually looks.

A cabochon is a stone that is polished to a finished shape rather than being cut. It suits some precious and semi-precious stones more than others. In most cases, the finished stone will be elliptical in shape and have a flat back.

History of Cabochon Gemstones

Before the 14th century, almost all precious and semi-precious stones were polished into cabochons. Only after this time did the means to produce entirely cut and faceted stones develop.

Although technically, some cutting occurs when creating a cabochon stone; this is purely to isolate the area of the intended final product, thereby minimizing the polishing required to achieve the finished shape.

Softer stones were also sometimes surface-carved after polishing, a practice which largely died out as faceting became more popular.

How are Cabochons Made?

When a jeweler cuts and polishes cabochon gemstones, the first step is selecting the suitable rough stone. They’ll usually try to look for stones with good color, few inclusions, and the right size and shape. Once the perfect stone is chosen, the jeweler begins cutting it into a rough, rounded shape resembling the final cabochon. This step, called preforming, removes any excess material and provides a basic outline with which to work.

Next, the jeweler creates the smooth, rounded dome that cabochons are known for. They use grinding wheels with different grit levels to shape the stone gradually. The stone is attached to a dop stick with wax to make this process easier. This gives the jeweler a stable grip and allows them to apply even pressure while grinding, ensuring the dome is even and free of flat spots.

The final steps involve refining the shape and polishing the stone. The jeweler uses finer grinding wheels or belts to smooth out the dome. Then, they polish the stone with abrasives like diamond paste or cerium oxide to achieve a shiny, smooth surface.

Tips for Buying Cabochon Gemstones

Diamond and Cabochon Sapphire Engagement Ring 6609

We’ve been selling fine jewelry with cabochon gemstones inside. Here are our top 5 tips for what to look for when shopping for cabochons.

  1. Check the Cabochon surface very carefully. Ensure the gemstone has no surface imperfections like cracks, pits, or uneven sections. To quote Benjamin Khordipour, “A small dent in a cabochon today is a split stone tomorrow.” If you’re buying your gemstone online, ask the jewelers before purchasing.
  2. Inspect the color carefully. Ensure that the gemstone has a deep saturation. It is a real shame to purchase a cabochon that is “washed out” and colorless. Cabochons are renowned for their color.
  3. If you’re purchasing an investment-grade cabochon gemstone, ensure you have a reputable certificate (or two certificates) confirming everything the jeweler says.
  4. Analyze the inner clarity of the gemstone. Many cabochons have inclusions, which is fine, but show the stone to an expert to ensure that none of the inclusions can jeopardize its integrity.
  5. Check the dome shape and symmetry. This is a little hard, but try to examine the actual height of the dome and its symmetry. A little lack of symmetry is acceptable, but too much is problematic.

Shop Cabochon Gemstone Jewelry

Browse our collection of cabochon gemstones. Please let us know if you are interested in any of our jewelry items. Our collection is curated carefully, and the items go on reserve quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the Names of the Famous Cabochon Gemstones?

Yes. Some famous examples would be Star of India, Black Prince’s Ruby, Rosser Reeves Star Ruby, De Long Star Ruby, Star of Bombay, La Peregrina Pearl, and Black Star of Queensland.

What are Cabochons Used For?

Cabochons are only used for jewelry. Unlike some other shapes that can have commercial uses, cabochons are used exclusively in jewelry, either as featured gemstones or accenting stones.

What Does the Bottom of a Cabochon Look Like?

Most cabochons are flat at the bottom. This rule has some exceptions, but we estimate that over 90% of cabochons are flat and aren’t faceted or curved.

Talk to an Expert

Do you have any questions or comments? Are you looking to purchase a specific cabochon gemstone? Send us a message, and we will respond within one business hour.

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About Afshin Shaddaie

Afshin moved to New York City in the 1980s, and a few years later, he began his career in the fine and rare jewelry scene. He teamed up with Michael Khordipour, and they've been curating vintage jewelry ever since. He also regularly contributes to Forbes, Rapaport, CNBC, The Knot, and Insider. Afshin constantly travels to international shows and private viewing events in the hope of finding rare vintage rings that will be important enough to make an impression. He is available for appointments at our New York showroom when he's not traveling. In 2019, Afshin authored his book called The Engagement Ring Guide for Men. He is considered one of the world's foremost authorities on vintage jewelry and antique diamonds. His favorite jewelry era is Art Nouveau, and he loves rare Italian jewelry from the 1950s - 1970s. The Natural Saltwater Pearl is his favorite precious jewel.