Jewelry Blog

The Complete Guide to Buying Kashmir Sapphires

Afshin holding a very rare Kashmir Sapphire Ring in EDJ Jewelry Box

One of the rarest types of gemstones in the world, Kashmir Sapphires have long been considered the finest and most desirable sapphire. This article will reveal what makes this sapphire so desirable and how to successfully buy your gemstone-quality Kashmir Sapphire.

Michael Khordipour, Afshin Shaddaie, and Benjamin Khordipour, among the world’s foremost authorities on Kashmir Sapphires, collaborated on this article.

What is a Kashmir Sapphire?

A Kashmir sapphire is a rare and highly prized variety of sapphire known for its rich, velvety blue color. These gemstones were discovered in the late 19th century in the Kashmir region of northern India, high in the Himalayas. The mines that produced these sapphires were active for only a few decades, making genuine Kashmir sapphires exceedingly rare today.

Kashmir sapphires are distinguished by their deep blue hue, often described as “cornflower blue,” and a silky, velvety texture that results from tiny inclusions within the gem. These inclusions scatter light in a way that gives the stone a soft, glowing appearance. Due to their scarcity and exceptional beauty, Kashmir sapphires are some of the most valuable sapphires in the world, sought after by collectors and jewelers alike.

Expert Guidance for Shopping for a Kashmir Sapphire

Skip Ahead: Buying Checklist | Proving Origin | Color and Saturation | Clarity and Silk Inclusions | Cuts and Shapes | Prices

1. Checklist for Buying a Kashmir Sapphire

As already mentioned, you should always consult with a Kashmir expert before buying a Kashmir sapphire. Just one carat can cost north of $200,000. Thus, you need to be sure of what you’re buying. There are only about 15-20 experts in the world, and if you’re ready to start investing in Kashmir Sapphire, make sure that you reach out to one of them.

Here is what you should request before making the purchase. We’ve listed this in order of importance:

  1. Ensure that the sapphire is of Gem Quality (consult with an expert)
  2. Confirm the origin of the sapphire as being from Kashmir (ideally two certificates, with one being from an AGL certificate)
  3. Ascertain that the color is cornflower blue or royal blue (consult with an expert)
  4. Ensure that the certificates confirm that the sapphire has not been heat-treated (or manipulated in any way)

And we can’t restate this enough: only buy Kashmir Stones from reputable sellers. Rare and fine jewelry purchases require a lot of good faith. Only purchase your sapphire from a seller who has a track record (and reputation) of decades of trust.

2. Proving Origin for Kashmir Sapphires

Kashmir Sapphire Ring on Finger

Proving origin is one of the most important parts of buying and selling a Kashmir Sapphire. Genuine Kashmir sapphires come from the mines of Kashmir at the Zanskar mountain range of the Himalayas. Almost all of the premium value of the Kashmiri Gemstone will be wrapped up in its proof of origin. In order to hold your investment, you will want to prove that the sapphire came from the Kashmir Mines.

The good news is that there are laboratories that can determine the origin of stones. They will examine the sapphire carefully, and they will provide a document guaranteeing its status.

The top companies that provide reputable certificates for origin are:

  1. AGL – American Gemological Labs. The AGL certificates are considered the strongest Kashmir certificates in the industry.
  2. SSEF – Swiss Gemological Institute. A very authoritative choice for determining Kashmir’s origin.
  3. Gubelin – Gübelin Gem Lab. Another very authoritative choice for determining Kashmir’s origin.
  4. Christian Duneg. This lab doesn’t have a website, but they are one of the top authorities.
  5. GIA – Gemological Institute of America. The GIA isn’t recommended. See below.
  6. AGTA – American Gem Trade Association. The AGTA Labs no longer exist, and their sapphire certificates are strongly flawed. See below.

If you’re looking to buy a genuine Kashmir sapphire, you need confirmation of its origin. And not just any confirmation, either; you’ll want an official certificate from a reputable source confirming that it came from the Himalayan valley.

In the 1980s, there were many problematic certificates that confused the origins between Kashmir and Madagascar. As a result, we strongly recommend not using AGTA and GIA to determine the origin of a sapphire. AGL, SSEF, Gubelin, and Christian Duneg are the highest authorities determining origin.

3. Desired Color and Saturation of Kashmir Blue

Loose Kashmir Sapphire Cushion Cut Rare

The strongest distinguishing feature of any sapphire is its blueness — the more intense the blueness, the more valuable the stone. Kashmir Sapphires are no exception to this rule. You can encounter pale or less intense blue sapphires, but they don’t hold the highest value.

There are three types of Kashmir Colors:

  1. The most desirable color for a Gem Quality Kashmiri Sapphire is Cornflower Blue. This has always been the highest color metric since the opening of the mines in the 1880s. This blue is lighter than the more renowned Royal Blue Sapphire. The cornflower blue color should also feature a deep saturation, as found on the petals of the Cornflower.
  2. Another color of note for a Gem-Quality Sapphire is Royal Blue. Royal Blue has a darker saturation of blue than cornflower blue, but many collectors gravitate towards the darker shades and prize them ahead of Cornflower Blue. It must also have deep saturation to qualify as a Royal Blue color.
  3. The least expensive Kashmir sapphires have subpar saturation or non-deep blue colors, making them appear pale. There are plenty of these on the market. They are not Gem-Quality Kashmir and will not demand extreme premiums. They usually sell at similar prices (or slightly higher) to regular non-gem-quality sapphires.

Additionally, you should always focus on the purity of the color. There shouldn’t be overtones of any other color, especially purple and violet. Gem-quality Kashmir sapphires should have an even spread of blue color from top to bottom.

Important Note: Regarding the color quality of a Kashmir sapphire, you will not get an accurate reading from any certificate. This is something that only a highly qualified sapphire expert can determine.

4. Clarity Range of Kashmir Sapphires (and Silk Inclusions)

SM313 Kashmiri Sapphire Ring with Diamonds with lots of silk inclusions

One of the most famous qualities of Kashmir sapphires is their silk-like rutile needles. This titanium oxide (TiO2) internal needles reduce the gem’s transparency but, in return, present a beautiful velvety shine that’s almost entirely exclusive to Kashmir sapphires.

These inclusions also allow light to travel evenly throughout the gem. If you shine a light into the gem, it indicates a genuine Kashmir sapphire if it lights up all sides.

These thin inclusions are a great indicator of authenticity. If you don’t find these tiny needles (also known as internal silk) all over the core of the gem, it may be a good cause to raise your suspicion about the stone’s origin.

Important Note: A moderate amount of velvety silk in a Kashmir Sapphire is considered very desirable. If, however, there is too much velvety silk, the desirability of the stone will start to go down.

5. Cut and Shapes of Kashmir Sapphires

Sapphire rings with sapphire shapes and cuts examples with numbers

There are two things to know when examining the cut of a sapphire:

  1. How perfectly the sapphire is cut (Quality of Cut)
  2. The type of gemstone shape (Shape of the Perimeter)

You’ll rarely find a perfectly symmetrical cut of blue Kashmir, and there are several reasons for that.

First, Kashmir Sapphires are old. They’ve been around for at least 100 years, and throughout that time, it’s almost impossible that they wouldn’t have gotten a small bump here and there.

Secondly, the jewelers who cut the sapphire would have lived over 100 years ago. Stone-cutting technology has come a long way. In the early 1900s, gemstone-cutting techniques were not very precise.

Additionally, Kashmir Sapphires would require much patience and expertise to cut due to the tiny inclusions.

Regarding shape, sapphires are usually cut in an antique cushion cut, emerald cut, or oval-cut shapes. The less deep the stone, the better. Cutting the sapphire to a little shallow allows less light into the stone and keeps the stone with a deeper saturation.

But it’s actually the intact gems – those that aren’t cut at all – that are the most expensive. In fact, the aforementioned record-breaking stone was an uncut gem.

6. Prices of Kashmir Sapphires

Now that you understand all the determining factors, let’s talk about the price range of these gems.

Due to their rarity, there isn’t a long trail of established prices for Kashmir sapphires. Most stones are already in the hands of collectors, investors, and jewelers. Therefore, sellers can set the price at liberty.

The prices for these sapphires can vary significantly based on factors like carat weight, color quality, and overall condition. On average, a high-quality Kashmir sapphire can fetch anywhere from $40,000 to over $200,000 per carat, with the finest stones reaching even higher prices.

Several factors contribute to the premium price of Kashmir sapphires, including their intense, velvety blue hue, the prestige of their origin, and rarity. As a result, collectors and connoisseurs are willing to pay top dollar for these rare gems. Additionally, rare pieces of jewelry featuring Kashmir sapphires, especially vintage or antique pieces, tend to carry a significant historical and aesthetic value, further driving up their cost.

“The prices for Gem-Quality Kashmir Sapphires are now more than 20 times what they were in the 1980s,” says Michael Khordipour, founder of Estate Diamond Jewelry. “And I expect it to rise even faster over the next few years.”

In conclusion, if a jeweler is selling you a Kashmir Sapphire for “a good deal,” think very hard before you accept the offer. Check its quality, color, and clarity. Most importantly, bring it to an expert who can determine whether there’s anything suspicious.

Shop for Gem-Quality Kashmir Sapphires

We’ve curated one of the rarest collections of Kashmir Sapphires in the world. Most of it is part of our private collection (and not online), but here are a few of our sapphires we’ve made available online.

Contact us directly to view our private collection of Kashmir Sapphire Stones and Kashmir Sapphire Jewelry.

Why are Kashmir Sapphires so Expensive?

very rare 3.53-carat Kashmir Sapphire turtle Brooch with diamonds around it
Sold. 3.53ct Kashmir Sapphire Ring from our Collection

The value of Kashmir sapphires is increasing every day. In fact, it is currently one of the strongest investment pieces of jewelry on the market.

Recently, Christie’s Auction House sold a 35.09-carat Kashmir blue sapphire for $7,357,999. For context, that’s $209,689 per carat. That’s the current world record. Expect it to go up in the following years.

Three primary factors make Kashmir so expensive:

  1. Quality. The Kashmir Sapphire commands a high price because many contain a top-quality sapphire specimen. You may come across other blue sapphires, but only those from Kashmir have what experts call blue velvet – a dreamy cornflower blue that reflects light under all angles. See below.
  2. Rarity. The Kashmir Sapphire is the rarest type of sapphire on the market.
  3. Prestige. The reputation of Kashmir Sapphires has taken on a life of its own. Most important pieces of sapphire jewelry worldwide showcase the Kashmir Sapphire in the center.

On top of its texture and tint, the incredible public demand has increased its price further.

Overall, Kashmir sapphires represent the crown of all sapphire gems, the perfect sapphire to mount on a ring, necklace, or earring.

The discussion of the Kashmir Sapphire vs. Ceylon Sapphire vs. Burma Sapphire always ends with professionals agreeing that Kashmir is far superior.

Very Important Note: For a Kashmir Sapphire to be desirable, it first needs to be a “gem-quality sapphire”. A poor-quality sapphire that happens to come from the Kashmir Mines will not have the premium investment qualities mentioned above.

Where to Buy Kashmir Sapphires?

As said, it won’t be easy to find genuine Kashmir Sapphires. You can’t just go into your local jewelry store and expect to find them. If you really want authentic gem-quality Kashmiri Sapphire Jewelry, you’ll have to look very hard for them.

Once you find a seller, there are a few things to consider:

  1. Store Reputation – The store needs to be trustworthy and reliable. You should research a vendor very carefully before considering dealing with them. You will also want to ensure that the seller is an expert in Kashmir Sapphires.
  2. Image of the Sapphire – Request to see high-res images of the Sapphire. Reliable sellers will make available photographs that you can zoom in on. This is especially important for Kashmir sapphires, as it lets you notice the silk-like inclusions and the reflective hue.
  3. Certificates – Crucially, a reliable online store will have official certifications vouching for the gem’s authenticity. It should always come from an internationally recognized gemologist institution and only the ones mentioned above. Most can confirm the geographic origin, condition, shape, transparency, etc.

Always remember that waiting for the real thing is better than letting down your guard and ending up with a fake.

Rare Three Stone Kashmir and Diamond Sapphire on Finger of model
A rare Three Stone Kashmir Sapphire from our Collection. Available for purchase.

Important Note: To view our entire rare collection of Kashmir Sapphires, please contact us directly and make an inquiry.

History of Kashmir Sapphires

landscape of Sapphire Kashmir Mines Mountains
A recent picture of the Sapphire Mines in Kashmir, June 2021.

Kashmir sapphires’ history started in 1880 in the Kashmir region on the Indian subcontinent. A landslide atop the Himalayas revealed an unusual type of rocks under the usual layer of soil. These rocks were almost completely bare except for the occasional protruding blue stones.

It took the locals a reasonable time to realize that the stones were sapphire. This caught the eye of the Maharajah (a regional ruler in India), who sent a regiment of guards to protect the mine and miners to dig out more of the sapphires.

By the end of 1887, the famous Kashmir Mine was exhausted. Hungry for more, the Maharajah sought the assistance of the British, who had ruled India for more than a decade. And with the help of British geologists, they found a new mine in the valley below. However, they quickly exhausted the other mine, too.

To this day, no other Kashmir deposits have been found. All that remains is what is available for purchase or in private collections.

The Timeline of Kashmir Sapphire History

Here is the timeline of the events that led to the discovery and depletion of Kashmir Sapphires:

  • 1880. Discovery of the main Kashmir Mine.
  • 1882. The largest Kashmir Mining discoveries. Most Kashmir gemstones were mined during these five years.
  • 1887. Depletion of Kashmir Mine.
  • 1906. C.M.P. Wright and the Kashmir Mineral Co. leased the mines and dug in a new location (without realizing that he discovered the New Kashmir Mines). He eventually gave up due to difficulties with digging conditions.
  • 1927. The last recorded small discovery of any Kashmir Sapphires was from new mines.

Talk to a Kashmir Sapphire Expert

Are you looking for a Kashmir Sapphire? We have a very rare private collection of Kashmir Sapphires and Jewelry.

Here’s what we recommend mentioning in order to help you better: your approximate budget, type of Jewelry (ring, earrings, brooch, necklace, bracelet, or loose stone), and size of the stone.

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About Afshin Shaddaie

Afshin moved to New York City in the 1980s, and a few years later, he began his career in the fine and rare jewelry scene. He teamed up with Michael Khordipour, and they've been curating vintage jewelry ever since. He also regularly contributes to Forbes, Rapaport, CNBC, The Knot, and Insider. Afshin constantly travels to international shows and private viewing events in the hope of finding rare vintage rings that will be important enough to make an impression. He is available for appointments at our New York showroom when he's not traveling. In 2019, Afshin authored his book called The Engagement Ring Guide for Men. He is considered one of the world's foremost authorities on vintage jewelry and antique diamonds. His favorite jewelry era is Art Nouveau, and he loves rare Italian jewelry from the 1950s - 1970s. The Natural Saltwater Pearl is his favorite precious jewel.