The Asscher cut diamond, with its mesmerizing step-cut facets and art deco allure, has captivated jewelry enthusiasts for over a century.
In this guide, Benjamin Khordipour, a leading expert on vintage jewelry, esteemed author, and GIA-certified gemologist, shares his unparalleled insight into the unique characteristics and timeless appeal of the Asscher cut.
What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?
An Asscher cut diamond is a striking square-shaped stone known for its distinct step cuts and geometric precision. First developed in 1902, this cut features deeply trimmed corners and a high crown, creating a unique blend of brilliance and clarity.
The step-cut design creates broad, flat facets that form a hall-of-mirrors effect, highlighting the stone’s depth and symmetry. Unlike more common brilliant cuts, the Asscher cut emphasizes clarity over sparkle, making it ideal for showcasing the purity and structure of the diamond.
This cut is renowned for its vintage charm, often found in older engagement rings, where features like windmill-like reflections, high crowns, and small tables are prevalent. Unlike brilliant cuts, which focus on sparkle, the beauty of the Asscher cut lies in its clarity and geometric precision. Due to the open facet design, inclusions are more visible in this cut, making it essential to aim for a clarity grade of VS2 or higher to ensure a clean, clear look. With its 58-step facets and a more subtle light display, the Asscher cut offers a sophisticated choice for those who appreciate understated elegance.
Pros and Cons of the Asscher Cut
Pros: The Asscher cut diamond offers a timeless, vintage appeal with its elegant step-cut design. Its large facets and deep pavilion create a beautiful hall-of-mirrors effect, emphasizing the diamond’s clarity and structure. This cut is perfect for those who appreciate a sophisticated, understated sparkle and a unique geometric look. Additionally, the Asscher cut’s distinct square shape with trimmed corners gives it a durable edge, making it less prone to chipping compared to other cuts with sharp edges.
Cons: One of the main drawbacks of the Asscher cut is its tendency to show inclusions and color more easily due to its open, clear facets. Unlike brilliant cuts, which hide flaws with sparkle, Asscher cuts require higher clarity grades to maintain a clean appearance. This means you may need to invest in a higher-quality stone to avoid visible imperfections. Additionally, Asscher cuts generally have less brilliance and fire compared to round or other brilliant cuts, so they may not suit someone looking for maximum sparkle.
Advanced Asscher Cut Diamond Guide
Jump Ahead: Cut Quality, Color, Clarity, Ratio, Windmill, and Royal Asscher Cut vs Asscher Cut.
Below is a table of key specifications for an Asscher cut diamond. We’ve outlined all the details to measure and consider when evaluating this unique cut.
| Specification | Description |
|---|---|
| Shape | Square with cropped corners, octagonal outline when viewed from above |
| Facets | 58 step-cut facets (can vary slightly depending on the specific design) |
| Length-to-Width Ratio | Ideal range is 1.00 to 1.05 for a perfect square appearance |
| Crown Height | Typically 10% to 15% of the diamond’s height, contributing to depth and vintage appeal |
| Table Percentage | Ideal range is 55% to 65% of the width of the diamond |
| Depth Percentage | Ideal range is 60% to 68% of the diamond’s total width, providing balance between brilliance and durability |
| Pavilion Depth | Deeper pavilions add to the hall-of-mirrors effect, usually around 43% to 48% of the diamond’s depth |
| Girdle Thickness | Can range from thin to slightly thick, ideally uniform for structural integrity |
| Culet | Usually pointed or very small to preserve symmetry and faceting |
| Symmetry | Excellent to very good symmetry is recommended for optimal light reflection and visual balance |
| Polish | Excellent to very good polish ensures a smooth surface and enhances light performance |
| Clarity | Higher clarity grades (VS2 and above) are ideal, as inclusions are more visible in step cuts |
| Color | Color can show more easily, so near-colorless grades (G or better) are recommended |
| Carat Weight | Asscher cuts retain more weight in the pavilion, so they may appear smaller than round cuts of the same weight |
| Fluorescence | Fluorescence can affect how the diamond appears under different lighting conditions, usually minimal impact in Asscher cuts |
1. Cut Quality of Asscher Cut
The cut quality of an Asscher cut diamond plays a critical role in determining its overall appearance and brilliance. A well-cut Asscher diamond will display excellent symmetry and clarity, with the step facets creating a captivating hall-of-mirrors effect. The depth percentage, table percentage, girdle thickness, and length-to-width ratio are key factors in ensuring that the diamond’s proportions are balanced, allowing for optimal light reflection and durability. Achieving the right cut quality is essential for maximizing the beauty and value of an Asscher cut diamond.
| Specification | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Table % | 58% – 64% | 54% – 57% or 65% – 69% | 50% – 53% or 70% – 72% | 48% – 49% or 73% – 75% | Outside of 48% – 75% |
| Depth % | 61% – 68% | 59% – 60% or 69% – 70% | 57% – 58% or 71% – 73% | 55% – 56% or 74% – 75% | Outside of 55% – 75% |
| Girdle | Thin to Medium | Slightly Thin or Slightly Thick | Thin to Thick | Very Thin or Very Thick | Extremely Thin or Extremely Thick |
| Culet | None to Very Small | Small | Medium | Slightly Large | Large |
| Length/Width Ratio | 1.00 – 1.05 | 1.06 – 1.10 | 1.11 – 1.15 | 1.16 – 1.20 | Over 1.20 |
2. Color of Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut diamond’s step-cut large and open facets make the color more noticeable than in brilliant cuts. For this reason, it is recommended to opt for higher color grades, such as H or better, to maintain a near-colorless appearance. Lower color grades, like I or J, can still work well, especially if paired with a yellow or rose gold setting, which helps mask any slight color tint.
Because of the way light moves through an Asscher cut, it’s less forgiving of color imperfections compared to round diamonds. While D-F colors are ideal for a pristine white look, stones in the G-J range can offer a good balance between value and appearance.
3. Clarity of Asscher Cut
The clarity of an Asscher cut diamond is especially important due to its step-cut design. It has large, open facets that expose more of the stone’s interior. This means that just like the color, the inclusions and imperfections are more visible compared to brilliant-cut diamonds, which can hide flaws through their complex facet structure. For this reason, it’s advisable to opt for a higher clarity grade, with VS2 or better being a popular choice to ensure the diamond appears clean to the naked eye.
Lower clarity grades, such as SI1 and SI2, may still be acceptable, but these should be evaluated carefully under magnification. The Asscher cut’s symmetry and focus on clarity make it crucial to select a stone that doesn’t have visible imperfections, especially in the center or larger facets, which would detract from the overall appearance of the diamond.
4. Ratio of Asscher Cut
The length-to-width ratio of an Asscher cut diamond is crucial in determining its overall shape and appearance. A classic Asscher cut has a perfectly square shape, which is achieved with a ratio of 1.00 to 1.05. Ratios closer to 1.00 ensure that the diamond retains its symmetrical, geometric beauty, which is a defining feature of this cut.
While variations in ratio exist, anything beyond 1.05 can begin to make the stone appear slightly rectangular, which deviates from the traditional Asscher style. Most buyers prefer the square appearance, but those looking for a slightly different look may opt for a length-to-width ratio as high as 1.10.
5. Asscher Cut Windmill
One of the most distinctive features of the Asscher cut diamond is the “windmill” effect created by its step-cut facets. When viewed from above, the beveled corners and symmetrical facets of the Asscher cut reflect light in a way that forms an X-like pattern, resembling the blades of a windmill. This unique visual effect enhances the geometric appeal of the cut and adds to its vintage charm.
The windmill effect is most noticeable in well-cut Asscher diamonds, where the facets are precisely aligned to create a strong interplay of light and shadow. The quality of the cut, including the proportions and symmetry, plays a significant role in amplifying this windmill pattern. This feature, combined with the diamond’s open step facets, draws the eye toward the center of the stone, giving it depth and dimension.
6. Royal Asscher Cut vs Asscher Cut
The Royal Asscher cut is a modern enhancement of the traditional Asscher cut. It features more facets and refined geometry to increase brilliance and light performance. While the original Asscher cut has 58 facets, the Royal Asscher cut boasts 74 facets, creating a more complex facet structure. This modern version retains the vintage charm of the original but introduces greater brilliance, giving it a slightly more radiant and fiery appearance.
Another key difference is the craftsmanship behind the Royal Asscher cut, which is patented by the Asscher family and incorporates a higher crown and smaller table compared to the traditional Asscher cut. These adjustments contribute to better light dispersion and enhance the iconic “windmill” effect. The Royal Asscher cut is known for its perfect symmetry and precise angles, offering a more sophisticated and luxurious option for those who appreciate the distinct square shape of the Asscher cut but desire a higher level of brilliance.
How Much Does an Asscher Cut Diamond Cost?
The cost of an Asscher cut diamond can vary depending on several factors, including carat weight, clarity, color, and overall cut quality.
The following chart shows the current market prices for Asscher Cut Diamonds. All the diamonds listed below are VS2-clarity and have good cut quality.
| Carat Size | Color | Price |
|---|---|---|
| 1 carat | D Color | $6,000 |
| 1 carat | J Color | $3,300 |
| 2 carats | D Color | $32,000 |
| 2 carats | J Color | $14,800 |
| 3 carats | D Color | $81,000 |
| 3 carats | J Color | $36,300 |
| 4 carats | D Color | $150,000 |
| 4 carats | J Color | $62,000 |
| 5 carats | D Color | $245,000 |
| 5 carats | J Color | $92,500 |
Difference Between an Antique Asscher Cut Diamond
Antique Asscher cut diamonds refer to the original design created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher. They feature a more subtle and less refined faceting style compared to modern cuts. These diamonds are known for their large, open facets, high crowns, and smaller tables, which create a distinct vintage appeal. The broader facets and deeper pavilion in antique Asscher cuts often result in a “hall of mirrors” effect, emphasizing clarity and symmetry over brilliance.
In contrast, modern Asscher cuts, including the Royal Asscher variation, have been refined to increase light performance and brilliance. Modern versions generally feature more facets and precise angles that enhance the diamond’s sparkle, making them more radiant. While antique Asscher cut diamonds are prized for their charm and old-world elegance, they may exhibit fewer flashes of light.
Benjamin’s Buying Tips for Asscher Cut Diamond
- Choose a High Clarity Grade. Due to the open, step-cut facets, imperfections are more visible in Asscher cuts. Opt for VS2 clarity or higher to ensure the diamond appears clean to the naked eye.
- Aim for Near-Colorless Grades. Asscher cut diamonds reveal color easily, so it’s best to choose G color or better for a bright, white appearance.
- Look for Excellent Symmetry. Asscher cuts rely heavily on symmetry to create the “hall of mirrors” effect. A well-proportioned diamond enhances its visual appeal.
- Consider a Higher Carat Weight. Asscher cuts tend to look smaller than other shapes of the same carat weight. This is due to their depth. We recommend considering going slightly larger if size is a priority.
- Evaluate the Length-to-Width Ratio. For a classic square look, aim for a ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. Anything higher may give the diamond a more rectangular appearance.
- Inspect the Cut Quality. A well-cut Asscher diamond should have precise facet alignments to enhance the brilliance and reflections within the stone.
- View the Diamond in Person or Videos. Step-cut diamonds, like Asscher cuts, can vary significantly in how they reflect light. Always review the diamond in person or through high-quality video before purchasing.
Shop Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Rings
Here are some of the stunning Asscher cut diamond engagement rings from our collection.
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1.05ct Asscher-Cut Aquamarine Double Halo Zena Ring$2,800 -
1.32ct Asscher-Cut Aquamarine Asino Ring$1,900 -
6.20ct Harry Winston RingCONTACT US -
GIA 1.01ct Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring. New York Ring$9,000 -
0.80ct Asscher Cut Diamond, Baguette Halo Ring. Henlow Ring$6,750 -
0.51ct Asscher-Cut Diamond Double Halo Platinum Walton Ring$5,200 -
10.42ct Asscher-Cut Diamond Roxbury RingContact for Price -
Villeta Ring, Colombian, No Oil$78,000
Famous Asscher Cut Diamonds
- The Cullinan Diamond. The Cullinan Diamond is the largest rough diamond ever found, and two of its most famous polished gems, Cullinan I and Cullinan II, were cut into Asscher shapes. They are part of the British Crown Jewels.
- The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond. Originally known as the Krupp Diamond, this stunning Asscher cut diamond weighs 33.19 carats and was famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor, adding to its allure and value.
- The Royal Asscher Diamond. A unique version of the traditional Asscher cut, this diamond was created by the descendants of Joseph Asscher, the original creator of the cut. It has been patented and features more facets for added brilliance.
- The Dream Diamond. Weighing in at over 100 carats, this Asscher cut diamond was praised for its impeccable clarity and is one of the largest Asscher cuts ever sold at auction.
- The Excelsior Diamond. Once the largest known diamond in the world, the Excelsior Diamond was eventually cut into multiple smaller stones, including some beautiful Asscher cut diamonds that are now part of private collections.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Best Ratio for Asscher Cut?
The best length-to-width ratio for an Asscher cut diamond is between 1.00 and 1.05, which ensures a perfectly square shape. A ratio within this range will provide the classic, balanced appearance that defines the Asscher cut.
Should I Buy a Lab-Grown Asscher Cut Diamond?
No. Lab-grown Asscher-cut diamonds are more affordable than natural diamonds, but they are essentially worthless once purchased. As we’ve mentioned in our famous article on lab-grown diamonds, investing in lab-grown diamonds is a massive mistake.
Is Asscher Cut Diamond More Expensive Than Brilliant Cut?
Asscher cut diamonds are almost always less expensive than round brilliant cuts of the same quality. However, since Asscher cuts showcase clarity and color more prominently, buyers may need to invest in higher grades, which can increase the overall cost.
Do Asscher Cut Diamonds Sparkle?
Asscher cut diamonds have a unique type of sparkle known as the “hall of mirrors” effect. While they do not sparkle as much as brilliant cuts, they reflect light in broad flashes that emphasize clarity and geometric precision.
What Does Asscher Cut Symbolize?
The Asscher cut is often associated with elegance, sophistication, and vintage charm. Its precise geometric shape and symmetrical facets make it a symbol of clarity, balance, and timeless beauty.
History of the Asscher Cut?
The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, a Dutch diamond cutter. It gained popularity in the Art Deco era for its geometric style and became a symbol of vintage luxury. The Asscher family is also renowned for cutting the famous Cullinan diamond, part of the British Crown Jewels.
Talk to a Diamond Expert
Are you looking to buy an Asscher cut diamond? Feel free to reach out to our diamond experts and we can help you find your dream diamond.
