When most couples begin the exciting quest of buying an engagement ring, they usually find themselves overwhelmed by all of the terms and technology. In this article, we give you a complete guide on the anatomy of an engagement ring.
- Defining the Anatomy of a Ring
- Different Types of Settings
Defining the Anatomy of a Ring
Below is a detailed explanation of each part of the engagement ring and what you need to know about it.
The Prongs
The prongs are the folded metal projections that hold the center diamond and side stones in place, preventing them from falling out.
When making a ring, the jeweler will usually craft the ring’s setting (a.k.a. mounting) first. Once the setting is finished, the setter will place the stones into their correct location and bend the metal over the stones. The prongs will need to sit flush against the stone. If there is any wiggle room, the stones may fall out.
In some rings, the center diamond is held with a bezel. A bezel surrounds the stone from all sides and holds it securely.
Bezel
The bezel is an alternative method to hold stones securely in place. Instead of using tiny protrusions to hold the stone, the bezel is a long strip of metal that is folded over the edge of the stone.
The advantage of the bezel is that the stone is far more secure, there is no pointy protrusion, and it can better protect the edges of the stone. The disadvantage is that it doesn’t look as nice as prongs, it’s harder for a jeweler to implement, and it’s harder to remove the stone after it’s been set.
The Center Diamond (or Primary Stone)
The center diamond is usually the stone at the very top of the ring. In a solitaire setting, the center diamond will be the only diamond at the top of the ring. In a halo setting, the center diamond will be surrounded by a circle of smaller diamonds (or stones).
Some rings will have more than one primary stone. Usually, in engagement rings, there will be one or three primary stones. Although the diamond is the most popular center stone, sapphire, emerald, ruby, and aquamarine are also fashionable.
Shoulders of the Ring
The shoulders of a ring will vary drastically from one ring to the next. There will be bare shoulders, and there will be shoulders that are studded with diamonds, engravings, or filigree. Some shoulders also feature stones like sapphire, emerald, or ruby.
The shoulders start from the edge of the center stone and extend until halfway down the shank. Beneath the shoulder is the shank (see below).
Accenting Stones
Accent stones is a generic term that includes all diamonds aside from the center diamond.
Accent stones come in many different variations:
- Diamond Halo: A circle of diamonds that surround the center diamond.
- Shoulder Stones: Diamonds or stones that sit on the shoulders. See above.
- Gallery Stones: Diamonds that adorn the prongs, filigree, and metalwork that holds the diamonds.
- Undergallery Stones: Diamonds that are set into the metalwork beneath or to the side of the center diamond. (see below)
- Stones on Shank: Diamonds that follow the entire (or part of the) circumference of the ring shank.
Halo and Surrounding Stones
The halo is one of the most common and popular accenting options. A halo comprises a circular border of stones surrounding the center stone. On engagement rings, the most common option for a halo is diamonds. Sapphire, emeralds, and rubies are also quite popular.
There are many reasons why halos are so popular. Here are some of the more common reasons:
- (Most popular reason): Halos make the center stone appear much larger. For example, a 1-carat diamond ring with a halo of smaller 0.10-carat diamonds around it will give the illusion of a 2-carat diamond.
- It allows the wearer to incorporate other gemstones into the design — for example, a center diamond with a halo of sapphires.
- A halo will give a border and a solid definition to the shape of the center stone.
Under Gallery
The under-gallery is the section of the ring that sits underneath the center stone and above the top of the finger when worn. This section is usually an opportunity for the craftsman to design something elaborate, and sometimes even stud it with smaller stones.
Although the under-gallery is very common in engagement rings, not all rings will utilize an under-gallery. In some cases, like most solitaire rings, there will be nothing underneath the center diamond aside from the bottom of the prongs.
Vintage rings will usually feature milgrain and filigree on the edges, while modern rings will typically have sharp edges or minimalistic designs.
The under-gallery usually connects the shoulders but can sometimes be free-standing or fall straight to the lower shank.
Shank
The shank is an all-inclusive word that starts from the shoulders of the ring and goes to the bottom. There are many different styles. Here are some of the most popular styles:
- Simple Shank: Just plain platinum (or gold, silver) with no engravings, designs, or extra stones.
- Altered Shank: No additions to the shank, but the shank itself may be rounded, squared, or elaborate.
- Diamond Studded Shank: Including diamonds in the shank, whether a few or a lot.
- Triple Wire Shank: Three metal wires pressed together to form a single shank. A common style found in vintage rings.
- Engravings on Shank: Etching and designs along part of the shank.
- Openwork filigree on Shanks: Metalwork that displays openings within the metal.
Hallmarks
The hallmarks (and makers-marks) are usually placed on the inside of the shank, approximately 1/3 to 1/2 from the bottom of the shank. Almost all the rings will have a code for the type of metal, and some will actually have the metal spelled.
Below is a list of some of the words that will be engraved into the bottom of the ring:
- The jeweler or jewelry company who created the ring (maker marks)
- The serial number or catalog number
- The country of origin (usually represented by an animal or symbol)
- The type of metal used
- The carat size of the center stone (or total carat weight)
- Custom engravings for the couple who commissioned (or purchased) the ring
Different Types of Settings and Mountings
Here’s a concise, bulleted list of different types of engagement ring settings with a brief explanation.
- Prong Setting: Features metal prongs that hold the gemstone in place, elevating it to catch light. Ideal for maximizing a stone’s brilliance. See above.
- Bezel Setting: Encases the perimeter of the gemstone with metal, offering excellent protection. It has a modern appearance and is good for active lifestyles. See above.
- Pavé Setting: Small diamonds are set closely together across the band, creating a sparkling effect. Small prongs or beads hold the stones.
- Channel Setting: Gemstones are set into a channel within the band, providing a sleek and smooth appearance without prongs, which is great for a snag-free wear.
- Halo Setting: A central stone is surrounded by smaller gemstones, enhancing its size and sparkle. This setting offers a glamorous, eye-catching look.
- Tension Setting: The gemstone is held in place by the tension of the metal band, creating the illusion of a floating stone. It’s modern and unique.
- Cluster Setting: Multiple small stones grouped together to mimic a larger stone, allowing for creative and decorative designs, often at a lower cost.
- Three-Stone Setting: Consists of a central gemstone flanked by two others, symbolizing the past, present, and future. It’s rich in symbolism and aesthetic appeal.
- Vintage or Antique Setting: Incorporates design elements from past eras, featuring intricate details like filigree or milgrain for a timeless, romantic look. Example above.
- Flush Setting: The gemstone is set into a drilled hole in the band so that it sits flush with the surface, offering a secure, snag-free setting.
Each setting type brings its own unique design and functional benefits to an engagement ring, allowing for personalization to match individual styles and preferences. To read our full guide on engagement ring settings, click here.
Talk to a Jewelry Expert
Are you looking for more advice and help with your engagement ring search? Feel free to reach out to one of our experts. We will respond within one business hour.
