Jewelry Blog

Complete Guide to the Rose Cut Diamond

Antique Rose Cut Diamond loose from angle

The rose-cut diamond has existed for over 500 years and is one of the most iconic diamond shapes. The rose-cut diamond has gained incredible popularity in the last ten years. In this article, Benjamin Khordipour will leverage his experience to teach you everything you’ll need to know about the rose cut before you buy it.

What is a Rose Cut Diamond?

Rose cut Diamond engagement Ring on wood surface

The rose cut diamond is an antique diamond cut that features only the crown and a flat cut-off at the bottom instead of a pavilion. The shape and construction are reminiscent of a Geodesic Dome made up of only triangles. To say it simply, the rose cut is only the top section of a diamond, without the (pointed) bottom part.

Regarding age, the rose cut far pre-dates the old mine cut and steps cuts, making it the oldest still-used diamond cut.

An easy way to identify a rose cut (in contrast to other diamond cuts) is to look at the top pattern of the diamond. If all the cuts at the top are large triangles, it’s a rose cut, but if you see other shapes at the top, it’s another cut.

Like any diamond, the rose-cut diamond ranks on the Mohs Scale, according to GIA, as a ten on the hardness scale. The fact that it’s shaped without a bottom doesn’t impact the hardness of the molecules.

Different Types of Rose Cut Diamond Shapes

There are many types of rose-cut diamonds. All of them have only the top section, but the shape of the circumference can vary rather drastically. Here are the most popular rose cut shapes:

  • Round-Shaped Rose Cut. The round rose cut is, without a doubt, the most prevalent variation. This variation varies from perfectly round to imperfectly round. The older stones are usually not perfectly round, have mismatched facets, and usually have a frosted girdle.
  • Cushion-Shape Rose Cut. The cushion rose cut will have a cushion shape, but because it’s a rose cut, it will have the exact facet breakdown and layout as a rose cut. Some will have an equal length-to-width ratio, and others will be elongated. The older variations (pre-1900s) will usually be less symmetrical, have uneven facets, and have a frosted girdle.
  • Oval-Shaped Rose Cut. The oval-shaped rose-cut diamond has the same facet structure as the other rose cuts, but its outer shape is oval. Some antique versions of the oval rose cut exist, but they are usually more modern.
  • Old Mine Rose Cut. Although this term is often used, it is inaccurate. The old mine cut must have 58 facets and a pavilion, and a rose-cut diamond doesn’t fall in this category. Usually, when people use the term old mine rose cut, they refer to an antique round rose cut.

Rose Cut Diamond vs Brilliant Cut Diamond

Rose cut diamond vs brilliant cut diamond

The rose-cut diamond and the brilliant-cut diamond have so many differences, as shown below, but the most significant difference is their sparkle. The rose-cut diamond, designed to flash against candlelight, has a reflective glow, while the modern brilliant-cut diamond has actual brilliance.

Another massive difference between the two cuts is the maximized carat weight in a rose cut diamond. Because it doesn’t have a pavilion, a 1.50-carat rose cut will measure approximately 9mm x 9mm, and a modern brilliant cut 1.50ct diamond will measure 7.32mm x 7.32mm.

Rose Cut DiamondBrilliant Cut Diamond
Facets25 facets58 facets (including culet)
Facet SizeLarge + TrianglesNarrow + mixed shapes
AgeCirca 1500sCirca 1950s
SparkleFlashing LusterBrilliant Sparkle
Lower ShapeFlat CutoffFaceted Pavilion
1 Carat Size7.5mm x 7.5mm6.5mm x 6.5mm

The rose-cut diamond was the most popular for centuries, from the 1500s until the 1850s. However, once the old mine cut was introduced, the rose cut popularity plummeted.

In a surprise twist, the rose-cut diamond shot back into popularity at the turn of this century, and over the past 20 years, it has continued to gain continual attention. It is now a trendy choice for the center stone of an engagement ring.

In 2012, Justin Theroux proposed to Jennifer Aniston using an 8-carat antique rose-cut engagement ring. The publicity surrounding their engagement was enormous, opening people’s eyes to this “olde worlde” diamond cut.

Aniston’s ring is not quite round. Instead, it has a slightly elongated shape, which is quite common with rose cuts, as mentioned earlier.

How much does a Rose Cut Diamond Cost?

Rose cut diamonds follow a slightly higher pricing structure than brilliant cuts. The big difference, of course, is that the rose-cut diamond, though the same weight, will look much larger than the regular brilliant-cut diamond.

Round Rose CutOther shaped rose cutRound Brilliant
0.50-carat, VS2, and J Color$1,080$1,020$900
1-carat, VS2, and J Color$5,160$4,440$4,300
2-carat, VS2, and J Color$21,120$19,200$17,600
3-carat, VS2, and J Color$48,000$43,560$40,500
4-carat, VS2, and J Color$84,000$74,400$70,000
5-carat, VS2, and J Color$129,000$117,000$107,500

Top 5 Tips for Buying a Rose Cut Diamond

Here are our top tips for what you need to know before buying a rose-cut diamond.

  1. Watch the Clarity. Try to find a rose-cut diamond with a clarity of VS2 or higher. Because the large triangles on the top of the rose cut act like windows, prominent inclusions will be highly noticeable. Don’t get a diamond that has large inclusions.
  2. Check the Condition. Some rose-cut diamonds in the market are extremely old, making them highly desirable. However, ensure that there are no cracks or hairline fractures that could later jeopardize the integrity of the diamond. This is a rare issue, but why we always strongly recommend purchasing rose-cut diamonds from reliable vendors.
  3. Buy Online from Estate Jewelers. Commercial “brick and mortar” stores usually mark up their vintage diamonds to cover their high overhead and the slow rate at which they expect to sell them. Estate jewelers specializing in vintage diamonds will have a larger inventory of rose-cut diamonds and be able to give much better prices to their customers.
  4. Promos and Discounts. Try to find online promos. Usually, if you run a Google search on an online store, you should be able to find a few promo codes. Additionally, don’t be too shy to negotiate with the jeweler.
  5. Color isn’t as Important. If you want a larger diamond, lowering your expectations with color is far better than clarity. The difference between a D color and a H color is hardly noticeable, but the price of a D color will be far higher. The rose cut does an incredible job hiding color because of the large reflective facets at the top.
  6. Aim for Milestones. Try to buy a diamond right underneath a “milestone amount.” Instead of purchasing a 2-carat diamond, try for a 1.99-carat one. Instead of paying the prices of a 2-carat range, you’ll pay for a diamond within the 1-carat range. That tiny reduction in carat size will save you a fortune.

Shop Rose Cut Diamond Jewelry

Here are some of the Rose-Cut Diamond jewelry from our collection. Feel free to shop our vintage jewelry page to view more examples. Click here for rose cut diamond engagement rings.

Talk to an Expert

Do you have any questions about rose-cut diamonds, or are you looking to buy one? Feel free to contact one of our diamond experts. We will respond within one business hour.


About Benjamin Khordipour

Benjamin Khordipour is one of the jewelry researchers and gemologists at Estate Diamond Jewelry. He received his official gemological degrees from both the GIA and GUBELIN. He also regularly contributes to Business Insider, Forbes, Rapaport, CNBC, and Brides Magazine. Benjamin was born in New York and joined Estate Diamond Jewelry in 2014. He is passionate about vintage jewelry and diamonds. This blog was built on his strong belief that jewelers have a responsibility to properly educate their customers. In 2019, Benjamin co-authored the book The Engagement Ring Guide for Men. His favorite vintage jewelry era is the Art Deco Era and his favorite type of stone is the Kashmir Sapphire. He also collects rare antique pins.