What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Written by: Benjamin Khordipour, Jewelry and Gemology Expert
October 28, 2021 – Posted in: Jewelry Blog

The Asscher cut diamond is the design and invention of Joseph Asscher in 1902. The Asscher cut diamond has strong associations with vintage jewelry.

Since they have a very appealing and unique sense of style, Asscher cut diamond engagement rings are both rare and appealing to many young brides today.

What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Asscher cut Diamond Halo Engagement Ring 12006-Artistic

The Asscher cut diamond is essentially just a square emerald shape diamond. It is recognizable by its large, wide-set facets, making the stone octagonal in shape. Some jewelers still refer to Asscher cuts as the “square emerald cut”.

Typical vintage Asscher cut engagement rings include diamonds with wide windmill-type reflections, deep pavilions, wide-cut corners, small tables, or high crowns.

Loose Asscher Cut Diamond on Prongs

Due to their step-like cuts, Asscher cut diamonds will display more inclusions than round diamonds. Similar to the emerald cut, the SI clarity Asscher cut will expose more inclusions than another antique diamond. When looking for a quality Asscher cut diamond, we recommend starting with a VS2 clarity or higher.

The Asscher cut diamond is identified by its 58 larger step facets, smaller table, and higher crown. The clarity of an Asscher cut diamond is what truly sets it apart. Unlike brilliant cuts, Asscher cuts do not have that excessive amount of sparkle and brilliance.

History of the Asscher Cut

0.50-Carat Diamond Halo Engagement Ring

The Asscher Family Patent

The patent for the Asscher Cut diamond was submitted by The Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, Holland in 1902. Due to Jewish persecution, the Asscher family had their business and store of diamonds seized during World War 2. The patent was never renewed.

The lack of patents led to many companies utilizing the square-emerald cut design of the original Asscher cut.

The Accomplishments of the Asscher Family

Joseph Asscher Cutting the Cullinan Diamond

Joseph Asscher was already a famous diamond expert when the Cullinan Diamond was discovered in South Africa in 1905. King Edward VII of England received the diamonds, and he commissioned The Asscher Company to cleave the huge 3,106 carat stone.

The resulting cut stones, nominally named Cullinan I to Cullinan IX are all owned by the British Royal Family, with the two largest stones forming part of the British Crown Jewels. The Cullinan II is one of the most famous cushion cut diamonds.

In recent years, the Asscher Cut has become synonymous with celebrity romance, with the cut being a feature of several very high-profile vintage engagement rings.

This association with fame and celebrity isn’t new. It has been popular since its inception.

As of 2000, the Asscher cut diamond is one of the most popular diamonds on the market, with its popularity growing with each passing year.

Asscher Cut Grading Guide

Ratio Images of Asscher Cut Diamonds 1.0 - 1.10

Asscher cuts, although within the spectrum of emerald-cuts, will still cover various ratios while still retaining their name. You can determine the squareness of the Asscher cut by using the above ratio chart.

Calculate the ratio by dividing the width by the length. For example, if the dimensions of the Asscher cut are 5mm x 5mm, the ratio is 1.0. If the dimensions of the diamond are 5mm x 5.2mm, the ratio is 1.04.

Anything above a 1.08 ratio in a modern Asscher Diamond is undesirable in the current market. Genuine antique Asscher-cuts are so rare that even a 1.10 ratio will be highly desirable.

Antique Asscher Cut Diamonds

0.50ct Asscher Cut Diamond and Sapphire and Diamond Halo Ring - Mississippi Ring - Hand video

The culet is the small point or facet at the bottom of a diamond. It was added in the 14th century after the creation of the table cut. True antique Asscher cuts include a culet and a relatively small table.

Given the culet and table requirements, authentic vintage Asscher cut engagement rings are very rare and difficult to procure. Their distinct appearance, especially the face-up, makes them a popular style for antique enthusiasts.

Antique Asscher cut diamond engagement rings sometimes feature square, concentric patterns that look like a “house of mirrors.”

This leads to a sparkling quality that contributes to its popularity among vintage engagement rings.

Asscher Cut Diamonds Today

Asscher cut diamond surrounded by a halo of emeralds ring

Asscher cut engagement rings have experienced a resurgence alongside the public’s interest in antique and vintage jewelry. The dimensions of current Asscher cut diamonds vary drastically from stone to stone, but the simplicity and grace of this cut remain consistent across the board. The height of the crown and pavilion will always not be uniform, and their ratios will differ.

Unlike round diamonds, experts are unsure of the optimal Asscher ratios. The ultimate decision rests on the buyer.

The Krupp Diamond

Elizabeth Taylor with the Krupp Asscher Diamond Ring

The first diamond bought by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor was the 33.19-carat Krupp Diamond. The Krupp Diamond is of exceptional quality and cost Taylor a price of $307,000.

Graded by the GIA as D color and VS1 Clarity. This diamond also has information indicating that the stone is likely to be internally flawless, such diamonds, classed as Type IIa, are extremely rare.

She considered the Krupp Diamond as one of her favorite pieces, and often wore it in film and TV appearances.

Upon her death, the diamond became known as “The Elizabeth Taylor” diamond in recognition of her affection for the diamond. Despite the exposure that the Cullinan and Krupp/Taylor diamonds brought to the Asscher Cut, it remained a niche example within the diamond world.

Part of the allure of this diamond was its unique focus. Instead of twinkling and sparkling in the way that Brilliant Cut diamonds might, this diamond shows its clarity and internal flawlessness. This limits its appeal to all but the most discerning eyes.

Click the link to learn more about Elizabeth Taylor’s fascinating jewelry.

Shop Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Rings

Here are some of the stunning Asscher cut diamond engagement rings from our collection.

View our Asscher Cut Jewelry

Collection of Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Rings

Informed buyers consistently choose Estate Diamond Jewelry because they recognize the commitment to quality that has defined our company.

We employ third-generation jewelers who specialize in the exact same techniques that were prevalent in the Art Deco area. Our experts truly understand the craftsmanship of antique jewelry in a profound way that is unrivaled in the industry. If you demand the best of the best, there is no substitute for our breathtaking Asscher cut vintage engagement rings.

Click here to view our Asscher Cut Collection.

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13025 Customer using a Loupe on a Diamond and Sapphire Halo Engagement Ring in Showroom

Are you looking to buy an Asscher cut diamond? Feel free to reach out to our diamond experts and we can help you find your dream diamond.