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Expert Guide to Jewelry Maker’s Mark
Understanding a jewelry maker’s mark is essential for identifying authenticity, origin, and value of jewelry items. This is especially true of vintage or antique pieces. This guide is authored by Benjamin Khordipour, a leading authority in the vintage jewelry world, renowned for his expertise, lectures, and decades of experience in curating rare and important estate pieces.
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What is a Jewelry Maker’s Mark?
A jewelry maker’s mark is a unique stamp or engraving placed on a piece of jewelry by the manufacturer, designer, or artisan who created it.
The marker’s mark will often include initials, full names, symbols, or logos, and they serve as a signature that links the piece to its origin. Maker’s marks will usually be found in discreet areas, such as the inside of a ring band, the clasp of a necklace, or the back of a brooch. In many countries, including the United States and across Europe, applying a maker’s mark is standard practice and can also help distinguish between mass-produced items and handcrafted works.
Knowing how to identify a maker mark is vital for anyone collecting, appraising, or purchasing fine or vintage jewelry. These marks not only help confirm authenticity but also provide insight into the piece’s history, craftsmanship, and potential value.
In most cases, a recognizable maker (like Cartier, Tiffany or Bulgari) will significantly increase the worth of the jewelry piece. For vintage jewelry in particular, understanding maker’s marks is one of the most reliable ways to trace provenance and verify that what you’re holding is truly what it claims to be.
How to Locate the Maker’s Mark on Jewelry
Maker’s marks are usually hidden in plain sight. The struggle, of course, will be to know where to look.
- Rings will usually have the markers mark stamped on the inside surface of the back of the band.
- For necklaces and bracelets, check the clasp or a small metal tag nearby.
- Brooches usually carry the mark on the back, near the hinge or pin. Often the mark will be on the actual pin.
- Earrings will often have the markers mark on the post or the back of the setting.
- Lockets and pendants often have marks on the back or tucked away inside.
These stamps can be incredibly small and sometimes faded, especially on older jewelry. A magnifying glass or jeweler’s loupe will make the process much easier.
“It’s like a fingerprint,” says Afshin Shaddaie. “The first step to understanding your piece is to turn it over and examine it carefully for marks.”
Take your time when searching for a makers mark. Use good lighting, and don’t be surprised if you find more than one mark. It’s not uncommon to see the maker’s mark alongside purity stamps or even a serial number, especially on fine or vintage pieces.
Database of Famous Jewelry Maker’s Marks
Recognizing a famous jewelry maker’s mark can instantly transform how you view a piece, and the first step will be to learn what the different maker’s marks look like.
This list was compiled by Afshin Shaddaie and Benjamin Khordipour.
| Jewelry House | Description |
|---|---|
| Angela Cummings | Pieces marked “Angela Cummings” or “AC,” especially in Tiffany collaborations. |
| Belais | Stamped “Belais 18K” or “Belais White Gold”; early white gold innovator. |
| Black Starr & Frost | Usually marked “BLACK, STARR & FROST” or earlier variations like “Black, Starr & Gorham”; known for historic American high jewelry. |
| Boucheron | Usually marked “BOUCHERON,” often with “Paris” and a serial number. |
| Buccellati | Stamped “Buccellati” in script; older examples may say “Mario Buccellati.” |
| Bvlgari | Uses Roman-style “BVLGARI”; usually bold and centrally stamped. |
| Cartier | Marked “CARTIER,” sometimes with serial numbers and city names like Paris. |
| Chaumet | Typically “CHAUMET”; may include “Paris” and item numbers. |
| Chanel | Marked “CHANEL”; vintage pieces may include “Made in France” or a date stamp on a small plaque or cartouche. |
| Cipullo | Often signed “CIPULLO” or “ALDO CIPULLO,” especially on designs for Cartier like the Love Bracelet. |
| Chopard | Stamped “CHOPARD,” often in uppercase or script. |
| David Webb | Usually “WEBB” in caps or fully spelled out as “David Webb.” |
| David Yurman | Features “DAVID YURMAN” or the stylized “DY” logo; often with cable motif. |
| Fred Leighton | Marked “Fred Leighton”; often in script; known for curated vintage pieces. |
| Georg Jensen | Stamped “GEORG JENSEN” or “GJ,” often with “Denmark” or sterling notation. |
| Graff | Stamped “GRAFF”; often includes a serial number or certificate link. |
| Gucci | Marked “GUCCI” in bold uppercase letters; often includes “Made in Italy” and a serial number on modern pieces. |
| Harry Winston | Typically “H.W.” or full name; always with a serial number. |
| Henry Dunay | Marked “Dunay” or “Henry Dunay”; seen on sculptural, high-karat jewelry. |
| J.E. Caldwell & Co. | Marked “J.E. Caldwell & Co.” or “Caldwell,” especially on Edwardian pieces. |
| Kutchinsky | Marked “Kutchinsky”; mostly on mid-century British jewelry. |
| Lalique | Older pieces stamped “R. Lalique”; modern pieces say “Lalique.” |
| Marcus & Co. | Marked in script or block letters; typically on high-end vintage jewelry. |
| Mauboussin | Usually stamped “MAUBOUSSIN”; sometimes features a star or “Paris.” |
| Oscar Heyman | Marked “OH” or with a cartouche; includes serial numbers. |
| Paloma Picasso (Tiffany) | Marked “Paloma Picasso” or “Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso.” |
| Piaget | Stamped “PIAGET” in uppercase; seen on watches and high-jewelry pieces. |
| Raymond Yard | Marked “YARD” or “R.Y.”; found on collectible Art Deco jewelry. |
| Seaman Schepps | Marked “SEAMAN SCHEPPS”; often bold and colorful design. |
| Schlumberger | Stamped “Schlumberger” or “Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger.” |
| Tiffany & Co. | Marked “TIFFANY & CO.”; earlier versions may say “T & Co.” or include dates. |
| Trianon | Stamped “TRIANON”; known for luxury cufflinks and gem-based jewelry. |
| Van Cleef & Arpels | Marked “VCA” or full name; typically includes serial numbers. |
| Verdura | Marked “VERDURA”; designs may feature cross or shell motifs. |
Difference Between Maker’s Mark and Hallmark
While often confused, a maker’s mark and a hallmark serve very different purposes in the world of jewelry.
A maker’s mark identifies the jeweler or jewelry company that crafted the piece. It acts as a signature or branding stamp, letting you trace the origin of the designer. These marks are often composed of initials, symbols, or full names, and can vary widely depending on the era, country, and jeweler. Additionally, the maker’s mark helps date the jewelry item, by determine when that particular mark was used by the jeweler.
A hallmark, on the other hand, is used to certify the metal content and purity of the jewelry. These marks are very often applied by an official assay office or government regulatory body. Hallmarks might indicate gold karat (like 18K or 750), platinum, or sterling silver, and sometimes include a date letter, location symbol, or governmental stamp.
In short: the Maker’s Mark tells you who made it, while the hallmark tells you what the jewelry is made of. Both are essential for evaluating authenticity, quality, and value.
How Maker’s Marks Affect Jewelry Value
Maker’s marks can dramatically affect a piece’s value, but that added worth is often lost on the average buyer.
Most regular jewelers or buyers may overlook the significance of a rare or prestigious mark and treat the item as if it were any standard piece of jewelry.
It is for that reason that we strongly recommend only selling your jewelry to a jewelry specialist.
Jewelry experts will understand the historical and market value tied to specific makers and can give you an accurate quote that reflects the true premium your piece may deserve.
Consult with a Jeweler
If you’re unsure about a maker’s mark or want to verify the authenticity of a piece, it’s always best to consult with an experienced jeweler. Experts can quickly identify markings, assess value, and help uncover the full story behind your jewelry.
