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Michael’s Guide to Buying a Kashmir Sapphire
Kashmir Sapphires have long been considered the finest and most desirable sapphire in existence. In this article we’ll reveal what makes this sapphire so desirable and how to successfully buy a gemstone-quality Kashmir Sapphire in today’s market. This article was written in collaboration with 3 of the world’s foremost authorities on Kashmir Sapphires, Michael Khordipour, Afshin Shaddaie, and Benjamin Khordipour.
Do you need help sourcing a Kashmir Sapphire? Talk to leading Kashmir Sapphire Experts below.
What is a Kashmir Sapphire?
A Kashmir sapphire is a rare type of sapphire known for its rich, velvety blue color. These gemstones were discovered in the late 19th century in the Kashmir region of northern India, high in the Himalayas. The mines that produced these sapphires were active for only a few decades in the 1800s, making genuine Kashmir sapphires exceedingly rare.
Kashmir sapphires can be recognized by their deep blue hue, often described as “cornflower blue,” and a silky, velvety texture that results from tiny inclusions within the gem. These inclusions scatter light in a way that gives the stone a soft, glowing appearance.
Due to their scarcity and exceptional beauty, Kashmir sapphires are one of the most valuable gemstones in the world, greatly sought after by collectors and jewelry-enthusiasts alike.
Expert Guidance for Shopping for a Kashmir Sapphire
Skip Ahead: Buying Checklist | Proving Kashmir Origin | Color and Saturation | Clarity and Silk Inclusions | Cuts and Shapes | Prices
1. Checklist for Buying a Kashmir Sapphire
We strongly recommend always consult with a Kashmir expert before buying a Kashmir sapphire. The reason for this is that just a single 1-carat gem-quality sapphire Kashmir can cost north of $200,000. Thus, you’ll need to be sure of what you’re buying.
Here is what Benjamin Khordipour recommends that you should request before making a purchase of Kashmir Sapphire. We’ve listed this checklist in order of importance:
- Ensure that the Kashmir Sapphire is “Gem-Quality” (see below)
- Confirm the origin of the sapphire as being from Kashmir (ideally two certificates, with one being a AGL certificate)
- Ascertain that the color is cornflower blue or royal blue (consult with an expert)
- Ensure that the sapphire has not been heat-treated or manipulated in any way (ideally with two separate certificates)
And we can’t restate this enough: Only buy Kashmir Stones from reputable sellers. Rare and fine jewelry purchases require a lot of good faith. Only purchase your sapphire from a seller who has a track record (and reputation) of decades of trust.
2. Proving Origin for Kashmir Sapphires
Proving origin is one of the most important parts of buying a Kashmir Sapphire. Genuine Kashmir sapphires come from the mines of Kashmir at the Zanskar mountain range of the Himalayas. Almost all of the premium value of the Kashmiri Gemstone will be wrapped up in its proof of origin. To secure your investment, you will want to prove that the sapphire actually originated from the Kashmir Mines.
The good news is that there are laboratories that can determine the origin of stones. They will examine the sapphire carefully, and they will provide a document guaranteeing its status.
The top companies that provide reputable certificates for origin are:
- AGL. American Gemological Labs. The AGL certificate is considered the strongest Kashmir certificate in the industry.
- SSEF. Swiss Gemological Institute. A very authoritative choice for determining Kashmir’s origin.
- Gubelin. Gübelin Gem Lab. Another very authoritative choice for determining Kashmir’s origin.
- Christian Duneg. This lab doesn’t have a website, but they are one of the top authorities, and very respected in the industry.
- GIA. Gemological Institute of America. Although the GIA is one of the most important names for diamonds, most experts won’t recommend them as a good certification for proof of origin.
- AGTA. American Gem Trade Association. The AGTA Labs no longer exist, and like the GIA, their Kashmir certificate is deemed highly problematic by many collectors.
In the 1980s, there were many problematic certificates that confused the origins between Kashmir and Madagascar. As a result, we firmly recommend not using AGTA and GIA to determine the origin of a Kashmir sapphire. AGL, SSEF, Gubelin, and Christian Duneg are the highest authorities for determining precise origin.
3. Desired Color and Saturation of Kashmir Blue
The strongest distinguishing feature of any sapphire is its blueness, and generally the more intense the blue, the more valuable the stone. Kashmir Sapphires are no exception to this rule. You can encounter pale or less intense blue sapphires, but they won’t hold the highest value.
There are three types of Kashmir Colors:
- The most desirable color for a Gem-Quality Kashmir Sapphire is Cornflower Blue. The cornflower blue color should feature a deep saturation and an “even spead”, as found on the petals of the cornflower. This color has always been the highest color metric since the opening of the mines in the 1880s, and it still remains the gold-standard among most elite-collectors.
- The next color of note for a Gem-Quality Sapphire is Royal Blue. Royal Blue has a darker saturation than cornflower blue, but many collectors gravitate towards the darker shades and prize them ahead of Cornflower Blue. It must also have deep saturation and an “even spread”.
- The least expensive Kashmir sapphires have subpar saturation or non-deep blue colors, making them appear pale. There are plenty of these on the market. They are not Gem-Quality Kashmir and will not demand extreme premiums. They usually sell at similar prices (or slightly higher) to regular non-gem-quality sapphires.
Additionally, you should always focus on the purity of the color. There shouldn’t be overtones of any other color, especially purple and violet. Gem-quality Kashmir sapphires should have an even spread of blue from top to bottom.
Important Note: Regarding the color quality of a Kashmir sapphire, you will not get a precise and accurate color-reading from a certificate. This is something that only an expert can determine.
4. Clarity Range of Kashmir Sapphires (and Silk Inclusions)
One of the most famous qualities of Kashmir sapphires is their silk-like rutile needles. These titanium oxide (TiO2) internal needles reduce the gem’s transparency but, in return, present a beautiful velvety shine that’s almost entirely exclusive to Kashmir sapphires.
These inclusions also allow light to travel evenly throughout the gem. If you shine a light into the gem, it indicates a genuine Kashmir sapphire if it lights up all sides.
These thin inclusions are a great indicator of authenticity. If you don’t find these tiny needles (also known as internal silk) all over the core of the gem, it may be a good cause to raise your suspicion about the stone’s origin.
Important Note: A moderate amount of velvety silk in a Kashmir Sapphire is desirable. If, however, there is too much velvety silk, the desirability of the stone will start to go down.
5. Cut and Shapes of Kashmir Sapphires
There are two things to know when examining the cut of a sapphire:
- Quality of Cut. Meaning: How perfectly the sapphire is cut.
- Shape of the Gemstone. Meaning: The type of gemstone shape.
That being said, it is important to note that it is very rare to find a perfectly symmetrical cut of a Kashmir gemstone, and there are several reasons for that.
First, all Kashmir Sapphires are very old. They’ve been around for at least 100 years, and throughout that time, it’s almost impossible that they wouldn’t have gotten a small bump here and there.
Secondly, the gemstone-cutters who cut them would have done so over 150 years ago. Gemstone-cutting technology has come a long way. In the early 1900s, gemstone-cutting techniques were not very precise and so all Kashmir gemstones will have imperfect symmetry.
Regarding shape, sapphires are usually cut into a cushion, emerald, or oval-cut shape. Usually, the less deep the stone, the better. A shallow sapphire allows less light into the stone and keeps the stone with a deeper saturation.
6. Prices of Kashmir Sapphires
Now that you understand all the determining factors, let’s talk about the price range of these gems.
Due to their extreme rarity, there isn’t a long trail of established prices for Kashmir sapphires. Most Kashmir gemstones are already in the hands of collectors, investors, and jewelers. Therefore, sellers can usually set the price at their own liberty.
The prices for Kashmir Sapphires will vary based on factors like the carat weight, color quality, and overall condition. On average, a high-quality Kashmir sapphire will range anywhere from $40,000 to over $200,000 per carat, with the highest-quality gemstones reaching far higher prices.
Several other aspects are also considered in the premium price of Kashmir sapphires, including the intensity of the velvety blue hue and the certificates that are used to prove origin. As a result, educated collectors are willing to pay top dollar for the better gemstones.
“The prices for Gem-Quality Kashmir Sapphires are now more than 20 times what they were in the 1980s,” says Michael Khordipour, founder of Estate Diamond Jewelry. “And I expect it to rise even faster over the next few years.”
Additionally, rare and important jewelry pieces featuring Kashmir sapphires, especially vintage or antique pieces, will carry added value, further driving up their cost.
“If anyone is selling you a Kashmir Sapphire for a really good deal, think very hard before you accept the offer,” says Afshin Shaddaie, 30-year veteran dealer for Kashmir Sapphires. “Check the quality, color, and clarity, and certificates very carefully before you move forward.”
Shop for Gem-Quality Kashmir Sapphires
We’ve curated one of the rarest collections of Kashmir Sapphires in the world. Most of it is part of our private collection (and not online), but here are a few Kashmir rings and gemstones that we’ve made available online.
Contact us directly to view our private collection of Kashmir Sapphire Stones and Kashmir Sapphire Jewelry.
Why are Kashmir Sapphires so Expensive?
The value of Kashmir sapphires is increasing every day. In fact, it is currently one of the strongest investment pieces of jewelry on the market.
Recently, Christie’s Auction House sold a 35.09-carat Kashmir blue sapphire for $7,357,999. For context, that’s $209,689 per carat. That’s the current world record. We expect it to keep going up in the upcoming years.
Three primary factors make Kashmir so expensive:
- Quality. The Kashmir Sapphire commands a high price because many contain a top-quality sapphire specimen. You may come across other blue sapphires, but only those from Kashmir have what experts call blue velvet, which is a dreamy cornflower blue that reflects light under all angles.
- Rarity. The Kashmir Sapphire is one of the rarest type of gem-quality sapphires on the market.
- Prestige. The reputation of Kashmir Sapphires has taken on a life of its own, and as a result, some of the most important jewelry items in the world have a Kashmir sapphire in the center.
On top of its texture and tint, the incredible public demand has increased its price further.
The discussion of the Kashmir Sapphire vs. Ceylon Sapphire vs. Burma Sapphire always ends with professionals agreeing that Kashmir is far superior on almost all counts.
Very Important Note: For a Kashmir Sapphire to be desirable, it first needs to be a “gem-quality sapphire”. A poor-quality sapphire that happens to come from the Kashmir Mines will not have the premium investment qualities mentioned above.
Where to Buy Kashmir Sapphires?
As said above, it’s not easy to secure a genuine Kashmir sapphire. Only a few jewelers in the world will have any. If you really want authentic gem-quality Kashmiri Sapphire Jewelry, you’ll have to look very hard for them.
Once you find a Kashmir sapphire seller, there are a few things to consider:
- Jeweler Reputation. The jeweler will need to be trustworthy and reliable. You should do research very carefully, and you you’ll also want to ensure that they are an expert in Kashmir sapphires.
- Good View of Sapphire. Before going to examine it in person, you will want to request high-resolution images of the sapphire. Reliable sellers will make available photographs that you can zoom in on. This is especially important for Kashmir sapphires, as it lets you notice the silk-like inclusions and the reflective hue.
- Authoritative Certificates. Crucially, a reliable jeweler will have proper certifications vouching for the gem’s authenticity. These certificates should only come from the list that we listed above.
“It is always before to do research at the beginning,” says Benjamin Khordipour, “than letting down your guard and ending up with problems down the line. Especially with Kashmir sapphires, that have so many details involved.”
Kashmir vs Kashmir-Style Sapphires
Due to the importance and excitement surrounding Kashmir sapphires, there exists a sub-market of Kashmir-style sapphire and Kashmir-colored sapphires.
These sapphires are not Kashmir sapphires!
It is very important to check clearly what is being listed before you purchase. A Kashmir sapphire means that the sapphire actually comes from a mine in Kashmir, and it needs to have reputable certificates to prove it. All other sapphires, are not Kashmir sapphires, even if the color or style is similar to what a gem-quality Kashmir looks like.
History of Kashmir Sapphires
Kashmir sapphires’ history started in 1880 in the Kashmir region on the Indian subcontinent. A landslide atop the Himalayas revealed an unusual type of rocks under the usual layer of soil. These rocks were almost completely bare except for the occasional protruding blue stones.
It took the locals a reasonable time to realize that the stones were sapphire. This caught the eye of the Maharajah (a regional ruler in India), who sent a regiment of guards to protect the mine and miners to dig out more of the sapphires.
By the end of 1887, the famous Kashmir Mine was exhausted. Hungry for more, the Maharajah sought the assistance of the British, who had ruled India for more than a decade. And with the help of British geologists, they found a new mine in the valley below. However, they quickly exhausted the other mine, too.
To this day, no other Kashmir deposits have been found. All that remains is what is available for purchase or in private collections.
Talk to a Kashmir Sapphire Expert
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